Heights Chateau, "The Focused Palate"

Port and Cold Weather, Perfect Together

2012-02-03T17:11:00.006-05:00

Which is not to say that Port can't be enjoyed fittingly at any other time of the year. And maybe we've been a bit culturally brainwashed by all those literary and cinematic depictions of the decanter of Port on the sideboard and a raging fire in the fireplace. Still, there's no denying that a glass of Port suffuses the lucky imbiber with a delicious sense of warmth and well-being that is most welcome on a cold winter night.

The Romance, the Ritual
There are any number of charming, even romantic traditions associated with drinking Port. The first has to do with opening the bottle, and the recommended method (which, I confess, I have never witnessed) is a bit more dramatic than simply pulling out the cork. For this exercise you need a special pair of tongs which are heated until they are bright cherry-red, then applied to the neck of the bottle and held there until the glow is gone; remove the tongs, then put a wet rag on the neck and, with a sharp twist, remove the neck of the bottle. Not terribly practical, but good entertainment for the guests at your next dinner party!

Then there is the practice of passing the Port decanter round the dinner table, always to the left, which I will let British wine writer Geoffrey Robertson describe: "The host, after pouring a very small quantity into his own glass first, is allowed to serve the lady on his right and left, so long as the decanter or bottle does not leave his hand. The decanter is then passed on to the left, the gentleman usually serving the lady as sometimes the decanters are very heavy. Should the decanter stop too long at someone's elbow, a gentle reminder from the thirstier guests, such as 'Mr. X, your "passport" is out of order,' or 'do you know the bishop of so-and-so, he never passed the Port,' will cause the wine to be circulated again, as no glass should ever be left empty. Another well known cry of despair is 'please polish the table,' as usually the bottom of the coaster is covered in green baize, and the host will then explain that the table is only polished properly when the Port is pushed round in its coaster regularly." Nobody seems to know the origin of this custom — some suggest the Royal Navy, where, of course, "port" means "left" — but the simple explanation probably lies in the fact that most people are right-handed and it is easier for them to pass wine that way.

The third custom has nothing to do with romance and everything to do with practicality, the custom of decanting vintage Port. Vintage Port, as it ages in bottle, throws off a significant amount of (often chunky) sediment, quite tannic and bitter in character, not what you want to find in your post-prandial glass of cheer. To eliminate the sediment, you should pass the wine through very finely textured cheesecloth set in a funnel or coffee-filter holder (and be careful to buy untreated cheesecloth, as some of what is in the marketplace is intended for waxing your car). A recent dinner guest, feeling that bringing wine to our house was equivalent to bringing the proverbial coals to Newcastle, offered instead a bottle from his cellar of 1985 vintage Port; he wisely (and courteously) decanted the bottle at home, rinsed out the original bottle and replaced the wine, as to have done otherwise would have risked reintegrating the sediment with the wine.

What Makes Port "Port"?
Or, more properly, what makes it "Oporto," after the city in which it originates, the name of "Port" (like that of "Champagne") having long ago been traduced by pathetic imitators. Port starts out like any other blended red wine; but well before all the natural sugars in the grapes have had the chance to convert to alcohol the winemaker adds brandy to the wine, thus at the same time stopping the fermentation process, leaving natural residual sugar in the wine, and significantly bolstering the level of alcohol. Tom Stevenson, another of my favorite Brit wine writers, narrates (and simultaneously explains the long-standing English connection): "In 1678, two Englishmen were sent by a Liverpool wine merchant to Viana do Castello, north of Oporto, to learn the wine trade. Holidaying up the River Douro, they were regally entertained by the Abbot of Lamego. Finding his wine 'very agreeable, sweetish, and extremely smooth,' they asked what made it exceptional among all others tasted on their journey. The Abbot confessed to doctoring the wine with brandy, but the Englishmen were so pleased with the result this had that they purchased the entire stock and shipped it home."

The Sweetness Issue
I got hooked on Port a long time ago, and it was my (mis)fortune that my first experience with it was with one of the latter-day classics, the 1963 Quinta do Noval. It was then that I started referring to Port as the adult's lollipop. I think one reason Port is not as widely appreciated in this country as it should be is that many of us still suffer from a misguided idea of a sophisticated palate, namely "dry is good, sweet is bad." Yes, Port is sweet, given how it is made, but it is a natural sweetness, and it has a place at the savory end of the food-pairing line as well. True, it's not for diabetics, but for the rest of us, in reasonable amounts, it is a delicious indulgence; in fact, forget the sweet dessert and bring out some ripe Stilton, some salted almonds, and the Port.

It's Not as Complicated as It Looks
I think the other problem for Port acceptance could well be the language of the label; it can seem a bit intimidating, especially when the "language" in question is in Portuguese. So let's conclude with a very brief "language" lesson. If I am advising someone wanting to buy a Port I tend to start at the most basic level by asking for a stylistic preference: "fruity" or "nutty"? The answer to "fruity" is Ruby Port, while the answer to "nutty" is Tawny Port. Every Port house makes a Ruby and a Tawny as its entry-level wines, and we move up from there in degrees of complexity, so here goes:

Ruby Port a young Port bottled after two or three years in bulk (probably cement or stainless steel)
Tawny Port: Ruby's cousin, made lighter or browner usually by the addition of some white Port (which was made in the traditional way, but with white grapes)
LBV Port : which stands for "late bottled vintage," ruby from a single year, bottled after four to six years of ageing
Aged Tawny : usually marked 10-year, 20-year, etc...light, tawny-colored Port which attained its color not through the addition of white Port but rather through extensive ageing in wood barrel for the number of years indicated
Colheita : a blend of tawny Ports from a single vintage aged several years in wood
True Vintage Port : Port from a single vintage, bottled after only two or three years in cask, then left to mature in bottle in the consumer's own cellars
True Vintage Port represents a mere 1% of all Port produced and is made/offered only in years when all the Port houses agree that the vintage in question was good enough to warrant them "declaring" it a vintage year
Single Quinta Vintage Port : called "poor man's vintage Port," produced from a single wine farm from a year not "declared" as a vintage, a way of experiencing the style of vintage Port without having to pay as much or wait as long
Crusted Port : a blend of different years, bottled early without filtration so that it matures in the bottle and has a heavy sediment

Now that you understand the different style of Port it's time to find out which style you prefer. Going back to the original "fruity/nutty" characterization, let's organize a Port Party; invite a few friends over and open a bottle each of a good Ruby and Tawny from the same producer... the differences will be obvious, and so should your preferences. Then you can move up the ladder a bit, as per the following recommendations.

Ruby Port by Sandeman 16.99 each
Tawny Port by Sandeman 16.99 each
Ruby Port by Quinta do Infantado 16.99 each
Tawny Port by Quinta do Infantado 16.99 each
Noval NV Noval Black (in the "ruby" direction)
a new style of Port, big, rich and seductive with elegant fruit flavors that lead to a nice touch of spice 19.99
Churchills 03 LBV (in the "nutty" direction)
spends four years in oak before bottling, resulting in a lush, medium-bodied Port with concentrated and balanced dark fruit flavors complemented by a hints tobacco and leather 29.99

Falling for the Finger Lakes

2011-11-19T00:09:00.009-05:00

Looking on a map, you might find it easy to miss the Finger Lakes. They don't look much like lakes at all, more like scratches in the topography left upon the landscape by some mythical deity. As a result, people are often surprised to learn that this unassuming area, located in the central-west New York just below Lake Ontario, produces some of the best wines in the United States.

The lakes were originally river beds that were gouged out over thousands and thousands of years by the slow movement of glaciers. The deep, skinny formations that were left behind created unique microclimates that are ideal for growing grapes. The lakes have a moderating effect on the surrounding land, preserving heat into the fall harvest season and cold in the spring, which holds back bud growth until after harmful frosts have passed.

This fall we made two separate visits to explore the region and taste some of the excellent wines that are being produced there. What we found was a wine country unlike any other, filled with small, fiercely independent but community-oriented wineries, as well as race-car enthusiasts, Amish produce stands, fish shacks and four-star restaurants.

Although we enjoyed several reds, particularly those made from Cabernet Franc and Lemberger, the real stars were the food-friendly whites, especially those made from German varietals like Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The best showed a fantastic balance between floral aromatics, depth of fruit and crisp acidity that should make them a hit at the dinner table. Whether it be a spicy stir fry or a classic holiday turkey dinner, these wines are perfect for those looking for something substantial and refreshing.

Atwater Estates

Started in 1999 by entrepreneur Ted Marks, Atwater Estates is a boutique winery that produces around 8500 cases a year. It is located on the south-east shore of Seneca Lake, in the heart of the so-called Banana Belt, a microclimate that has the warmest temperatures in the region. The vineyards have western exposure, and stretch down a gentle slope from Route 414 to the lakeshore.

We met Ted at the tasting room, an inviting and comfortable space with a drop-dead gorgeous view of the lake. That day had seen some heavy thunder showers, but by the time we arrived at Atwater, the sun was shining brightly and the vineyards were showing their best. Ted led us through a tasting of his full line of whites and reds as well as sparkling and dessert wines. The time passed effortlessly as he told us the story of the winery, talked about his winemaking philosophy and taught us a lot about what makes the Finger Lakes such a unique place. Enjoying these top-notch wines with Ted and his friendly staff, we clearly understood why Atwater sells most of its wines right out of the tasting room.

AtwaterEstate 2010 Dry Riesling $17.99

This is a wine of classic Finger Lakes character and value: the nose is herbal with fennel and lavender aromas lifting classic lime and subtle peach character, and the palate is lively, driven by intense lime flavors with peach and a little pear too. Soft and fruity when it first hits your palate, the wine gains focus through the midpalate and shows good length on the finish.

AtwaterEstate 2010 Gewurztraminer $18.99

Produced from twenty-year old vines, this Gewurztraminer is done in a dry style that is both refreshing and complex. Aromas of tangerine, lemon and peach are joined by notes of herbs and a touch of spice. It is rich on the palate, with excellent fruit weight that is balanced by very crisp acidity that lingers into a smooth finish.

AtwaterEstate NV Bubble Riesling $14.99

Atwater Bubble is redolent of peach, apricot and lemon with a touch of sweetness that is mouth-pleasing without being cloying. We imagine it will be the perfect aperitif for the holidays, and a mainstay at brunches throughout the winter.

Hermann J Wiemer Vineyard

Hermann Wiemer brought a family tradition of winemaking from Germany's Mosel Valley to Dundee on the western shore of the Seneca Lake in the 1970s. In 2007 he sold the operations to winemaker Fred Marwarth, who along with partner Oskar Bynke, continues to produce internationally-recognized wines, vintage after vintage.

The winery is located on the original plot of land where Hermann first planted vines in 1976. A restored 90-year old barn houses the winemaking facilities along with the winery's offices, shop and tasting room. If the weather is nice you can taste wine out on the patio but it's better to stay inside where you can taste at a long bar right next to the towering stainless steel tanks and watch the operation in action.

We were lucky enough to spend a few minutes with Fred during a brief downtime between emptying tanks, bottling and preparing for harvest. His winemaking philosophy is non-interventionist, based on the integrity of the fruit and respect for the land, evidenced by the traditional practices exhibited both in the field and in the tank. For example, Fred is acutely aware of the use of sulfur on the grapes and explained how his spray program was employed to limit sulfites in the finished product. It takes only a few sips to see that this pioneer of Finger Lakes winemaking will be at the front of the pack for years to come.

Wiemer 2007 Field Cuvee $13.99

An earthy blend of Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the Field Cuvee is a medium-bodied red with exceptional balance that will appeal to many different tastes.

Wiemer 2009 Frost Cuvee $11.99

The Frost Cuvee is a special blend, designed each year to reflect the qualities and outcomes of the particular growing season. Primarily Riesling and Gewurztraminer with a little Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir blended in, the wine is refreshing yet complex; there are bright fruit and floral notes up front while light pear and a touch of spice grace the palate.

Wiemer 2010 Dry Riesling $16.99

Wiemer's signature wine, the Dry Riesling is a blend of fruit from all three vineyard sites. It offers hints of lime and orange blossom on the nose, a succulent palate of apricot and grapefruit, and trademark minerality that persists into a smooth finish.

Wiemer 2010 Chardonnay $16.99
This is a new-world white with old-world sensibilities. Aromatic notes of orange and peach are complemented by just a touch of oak on the nose. The fruit is medium-bodied but invigorating on the palate, balanced by fresh acidity that leads to a crisp, pleasing finish.

Ravines Wine Cellars

Spending time in the Finger Lakes, we started recognizing some common themes among the wineries we visited, most noticeably their independent spirit, their congenial demeanor and their understated, but unmistakable, ambition for excellence. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the tasting room at Ravines Wine Cellars. Founded in 2000 by Morton and Lisa Hallgren, the winery sits on the eastern shore of Keuka Lake. This location, while appearing somewhat isolated from other wineries on a map, is actually ideally suited for growing high-quality grapes. The vineyard, situated on a steep slope at the widest section of the lake, benefits from generous exposure, excellent drainage and moderate temperatures. Guided by Lisa's vision and Morton's traditional winemaking techniques, the winery has been a success since its first vintage.

After a leisurely drive through beautiful farmland dotted with produce stands and the odd horse-and-buggy, we arrived at Ravines late in the afternoon to find a bright and airy tasting room, decorated to evoke Morton's native Provence. In the cellar below sits the "Ravinous Kitchen," a humble but comfortable space dedicated to local artisanal food. We were happy to learn that Lisa was doing extra duty behind the tasting table, and while she must have been exhausted after a long, busy day of dealing with throngs of tourists, she generously made the time to take us through her wines, expertly pairing them with local cheeses and chocolates. The experience revealed the Finger Lakes at its best and suggested that with this level of quality and consistency, the region won't be a local secret for much longer.

Ravines 2010 Keuka Village White $11.99

This is a French-American hybrid blend (Cayuga White and Vignoles) that breaks down the boundary between traditional hybrid wines and vinifera wines. The nose shows great fruity intensity with aromas of melon, peach and mango. This is a very lively, fresh, fruity off-dry wine with just enough sweetness to balance the acidity.

Ravines 2010 Keuka Village Red $11.99

A blend of Cabernet Franc and Noiret, this red is bright and fruit-forward with peppery hints and soft tannins. Its bright acidity and earthy finish make it a fine pair with hearty soups, meats and cheeses.

Ravines 2010 Dry Riesling $14.99

Soft apple and mineral aromas are joined by a hint of petrol on the nose. Medium-bodied, it has crisp flavors of stone fruit and mineral that are supported by a potent streak of acidity. Its smooth, clean finish invites another sip.

Ravines 2008 Cabernet Franc $17.99

This Cabernet Franc is made in a classic fruit-forward style with ripe red currant and blackberry aromas. Pretty fruit flavors are complemented by notes of earth and spice in the midpalate, balanced by soft tannins and zippy acidity into a dry finish that ends with a touch of oak.

Artisanal Spirits, The New Wave by Matthew

2011-10-03T15:57:00.004-04:00

After a brief summer hiatus, Matthew returns to "The Focused Palate" with an up-to-date take on artisanal spirits

American ingenuity and propensity for risk-taking have of late taken hold in the world of hand-crafted spirits, as many enterprising souls are mimicking the creative drive behind the microbrew industry. The initial success of distillers with small-batch bourbons has now spread to the production of local vodkas and gins. The surge is definitely on: there are today more than 200 small distilleries in operation, and that number is growing at the rate of 25-30 new facilities a year. More than half the states are home to artisanal distilleries, with Oregon, Colorado, California, Michigan and New York leading the way. Just this past week I was offered a locally-made vodka, a corn whiskey from Texas, and three different barley whiskies from Tennessee.

Why is this all happening now? A little bit of history before I answer that question. Once upon a time, small distilleries were quite common in farming communities across America; then came Prohibition. After repeal in 1933, wine and beer production came back on line fairly quickly (some would say they had never really gone away), but the powers that be considered hard liquor more harmful than wine or beer and therefore set the fees for distilling licenses so high that only large-scale operations could afford them. Over the past decade or so, however, many states have considerably lowered the cost of these licenses and lessened restrictions in other ways, such as permitting on-premise tastings and sales of spirits at production facilities and retail outlets, thus opening the doors for the artisanal spirits movement. And interest has been further heightened by the arrival nationwide of the new breed of bartenders — mixologists, if you will — who make their reputations by devising trendy drinks using specialty alcohols.

What's the appeal? Local flavors, for one thing. Think about a single-malt from Oregon that has been aged in barrels made from air-dried Oregon oak, or a Minnesota vodka made from wheat and rye from local farmers, or one from Kansas made from grain from the heartland. Another plus is variety: each distiller is making a unique product according to the dictates of his or her palate. And a third factor is limited production resulting in greater quality control: big distillers tend to keep every drop of alcohol they produce, on the assumption that it can be processed into something drinkable, while small producers are more likely to discard anything even slightly off in order to preserve their newly-established reputations. I'll conclude with a quote from Colin Levi, owner of Washington State's distillery, It's Five O'Clock Somewhere: "That's the beauty of being an artisan craft distillery. We're not bound to producing the same product day in and day out. Instead we're committed to unique, interesting liquors that are handmade from local ingredients. The big companies don't do it that way."

Is local better? Is smaller better? Is artisanal better? Try one of the following choices for yourself and find out!

Balcones Baby Blue Corn Whisky
This is a unique corn whisky from Texas made from atole, a roasted blue corn meal; it has the freshness and verve of traditional corn whisky but with a refined complexity. With a nose of melted butter, vanilla, and baking spices, it has a round nuttiness with toasty overtones and a smooth finish.
$49.99 (750ml)
Corsair Triple Smoke Whiskey
Operating out of Bowling Green, Kentucky, and now also Nashville, Tennessee, Andrew Webber and Derek Bell are mavericks at heart, dedicated to producing hand-crafted spirits using a combination of traditional distillation methods and innovative techniques. Triple Smoke is made from three different types of smoked barley, one smoked with cherry wood, another smoked with peat, and the third smoked with beech; this single malt is then pot distilled and barreled in new charred oak barrels. The result is deeply complex, smoky, buttery and rich, with nuanced flavors of fruit, toffee, and peat.
$47.99 (750ml)

Delaware Phoenix Distillery
Cheryl Lins, New York's very first producer of absinthe, has now turned her attention and skills to the distilling of grain spirits . . . and she is already pulling down gold medals for her efforts. Listen to Cheryl herself: "I personally believe that these awards acknowledge my hard work and some skill that goes into the making of these spirits where corners are not cut in order to make a buck. The production methods for my spirits harken back to an era when people worked the land and the land provided people what they needed."

Single-Barrel Artisanal Corn Whiskey
Made from 80% organic cracked corn plus a mix of malted barley and malted rye, aged in used oak barrels, this is a distinguished, mellow corn whiskey meant for sipping.
$24.99 (375ml)

Single-Barrel Artisanal Rye Whiskey
Made from 100% local (Walton, NY) rye, 10% malted and 90% grain, each barrel of this whiskey is a unique expression combining grain, distillation, oak, and storage environment for a rich, deep, bold flavor.
$42.99 (750ml)

Rye Dog Artisanal Unaged Whiskey
This clear whiskey uses the same blend as the single-barrel rye but gets no oak treatment; it is full-flavored and highly focused, perhaps more like an eau-de-vie that a whiskey.
$39.99 (750ml)

Mediterranean Wines for a Brooklyn Summer by Alex

2011-07-15T14:34:00.001-04:00

Untitled DocumentThough many out-of-town guests might disagree, summer is the best time of year here in Brooklyn. When the temperatures jump, there are a myriad of activities available on any given night of the week. Whether it be outdoor dining, movies in the park, free concerts, backyard grilling, rooftop parties or just sitting on the front stoop, seemingly endless opportunities abound, far outpacing the time we actually have available.

And everywhere we go, we are eating. Here at Heights Chateau we are blessed to be at the epicenter of several amazing food trends and traditions. We sit on Atlantic Avenue, the former home to the largest Syrian and Lebanese commercial corridor on the East Coast. Just south of us lies Carrol Gardens, a long standing Italian-American neighborhood with a mix of traditional and innovative restaurants. And in between there are Smith and Court Streets, the parallel thoroughfares that host several eateries that have put Brooklyn on the locavore foodie map.

With heat, humidity and food in mind, here are some wines that are perfect for a simmering Brooklyn summer.

Domaine Porto Carras 2009 Assyrtiko $13.99

At a recent Middle Eastern dinner, this wine was a revelation. Domaine Porto Carras is situated on the slopes of Mount Meliton in Sithonia, Halkidiki where chalky soil and ocean breezes combine to create excellent growing conditions. Here they do wonders with Assyrtiko. Native to the island of Santorini, the grape is known for producing full-bodied and structured white wines with crisp acidity and fresh mineral notes. This version is medium-bodied with ample citrus fruit and complex mineral flavors that are balanced by vibrant acidity. It lends itself to seafood and shellfish, but will also work great with salads, fried appetizers, grilled chicken and lighter pastas. As for my recent dinner, this wine was a standout paired with Ouzi, the spicy chicken and rice pie that is the national dish of Jordan. Amazing.

Cusumano 2010 Insolia $9.99

Insolia is a somewhat under-the-radar Italian grape that is grown mostly in western Sicily and parts of Tuscany. Best known as a blending grape in Marsala, Insolia is receiving new attention in single-varietal wines, and it's easy to see why. Cusumano's version, made from grapes grown in the hills south of Palermo, is full of rich and creamy fruit that is balanced by a touch of nuttiness and lip-smacking acidity. It's perfectly priced for a casual weekday dinner, whether it be grilled fish, chicken kebabs or classic spicy pastas. However, my favorite pairing is with a piping hot Neopolitan pizza from one of our many amazing local Italian restaurants. The plumpness of the wine is perfect with the fresh Mozzarella and sparsely administered tangy tomato sauce.

La Soraia 2010 Gavi di Gavi $15.99

Hailing from Piedmont near the border with Liguria, Gavi is a white that gets a bit of a bad rap. The wine, made from the Cortese grape, is one of the greatest whites in Italy, yet after a period of intense popularity that led to overproduction and a decline in overall quality, it fell out of favor. This trend is finally reversing itself thanks in part to the establishment of the DOCG in 1998 and the reemergence of small family estates that have remained committed to traditional winemaking practices. That's good news for us, as a steady stream of high-quality, food-friendly Gavi is available once again.

La Soraia is one of the oldest producers of Gavi di Gavi DOCG. Made from estate-grown grapes, their wines are crafted according to simple principles of non-intrusive, low-impact viticulture. Their Gavi is both lush and delicate, offering light and elegant floral aromas and complex flavors of white flowers, almonds and a balanced streak of mineral. Like most Gavis, this wine is incredibly versatile with food, its bright acidity and mineral finish making it a hit with classic Mediterranean flavors. Try it with Chicken Paillard, Italian fish stew or my personal favorite, freshly-made deep-fried falafel balls.

Can Feixes 2010 Blanc Seleccio $14.99
This is light, young and quaffable white wine at its best. Can Feixes is located high in the eastern mountains of Penedes, the only truly Mediterranean wine-growing region of Spain. It is a blend of the obscure and familiar: 40% Parellada, 30% Macabeo, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Malvaisía de Sitges. The wine is light and easy-drinking, yet aromatic, featuring aromas and subtle flavors of melon, mineral and citrus zest. Its uncomplicated nature makes it perfect as an aperitif but its intense focus from beginning to end also lends itself to endless food pairing possibilities. My ideal match would be a fresh yet substantial salad, like pickled watermelon with feta cheese, arugula and mint.

Need a pairing suggestion for your summer feast? Stop by the shop or drop us a line. We'd be more than happy to help!

Why drink anything else? | Tara on Pink Wine

2011-07-07T13:00:00.000-04:00

Before I started at Heights Chateau, I worked in a wine store/wine bar where we had maybe 15 rosés, tops. Since coming to Heights Chateau in 2007, I’ve worked three summers where our PINK section consistently grows, now hovering somewhere around 75-80 producers. I think it’s safe to say that the wines that exist somewhere between red and white have a special place in Matthew’s heart and now mine. Even Dominique is under the influence of PINK, buying a three-liter BOX of rosé from Buzet. (2010 Vinity Buzet Rose 3L Box $32.99) Drinking rosé year round is not unheard of, especially at Heights Chateau where we recommend it for food pairings year round, but summertime had another aspect which makes rosé even more palatable: hot weather.

While most of our customers LOVE a good rosé, I think there are still some misconceptions about wine that is neither white or red. The most tragic of these are:

1) All pink wine is sweet. -> False. We do stock a few sweeties, but virtually all of the roses in the store are dry. If dry is key, Provence or Loire is where it’s at. If you want to go fairly fruity, try a rosé from Anjou or Tavel. If you want it super sweet, you might just head for the White Zinfandel and call it a day.

2) Rosé is made by adding red wine to white wine. -> False. Most producers choose to macerate the skins with the juice for a short time after crushing to impart color and flavor. And therein lies a major clue to the character of the wine: generally speaking, the deeper the color the more intensely fruity the wine will be.

3) Rosé doesn’t go with food. ->False. For me, rosé paired with summer food is ideal, as it offers the best of both red and white wines.

Whether sparkly, organic or just plain good, we have one of best rosé selections (if I do say so myself) in Brooklyn for every palate, meal and/or budget. Stop by and find a new favorite!

Tara’s TOP TEN favorites for this summer:

1) Chemin de Bassac 2010 Isa Rosé $13.99 (France)
Berry and cherry flavors with a medium body, impressive balance, a smooth mouth feel, and a persistent crisp and dry finish. Organic.

2) Chateau d’Oupia 2010 Minervois Rosé $13.99 (France)
This charming organic rosé is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Mourvèdre. Tangy strawberry flavors are complemented by citrus, spice and a hint of mineral. Organic.

3) Raffault 2010 Chinon Rosé $17.99 (France)
100% Cabernet Franc, with bright and lively strawberry fruit and a long, succulent finish. Natural.

4) Bio Vio 2010 Rossese di Albenga $20.99 (Italy)
The classic red wine of Liguria, Rossese is best served with first courses, red meat and seasoned cheeses. Light bodied and well rounded, with flavors of cherries, strawberries and black currants with good finesse and complexity, it is best consumed fresh and young, within two years of the harvest. Organic.

5) Croix du Prieur 2010 Provence Rosé $15.99 (France)
La Croix du Prieur is a certified organic winery located in the shadows of Mount Sainte Victoire. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, and Syrah, the wine is crisp and tangy with berry and citrus flavors, a Domaine Ott "lookalike" at a fraction of the price. Organic.

6) Lopez de Heredia 2000 Rosado Tondonia $24.99 (Spain)
Lopez de Heredia is noted for extensively aging their wines, releasing them to the market only when they believe they are fully matured; their reds generally remain in the winery’s cellars for upwards of 10-20 years. In typical fashion for them, their rosé spends three years in oak, followed by additional bottle aging. Mostly Grenache, with a little Tempranillo and Viura blended in, the wine shows aromas of orange zest, peach, and a slightly silky nuttiness. Organic.

7) La Selve 2010 L'Audacieuse Rosé $17.99 (France)
Chateau La Selve is a dynamic new (started only in 2002) producer in the Ardèche. "L'Audacieuse" is their top rosé cuvée, a blend primarily of Grenache and Syrah with some Cinsault and Viognier added in. The wine shows unusual depth and complexity for a rosé; fresh and lively, it has abundant mineral notes, a beautifully balanced acidic structure and elegant notes of fresh raspberry. Biodynamic.
(P.S. Try their entry level pink too!)

8) Lauverjat 2010 Sancerre Rosé $18.99 (France)
Made by Katherine and Christian Lauverjat entirely from estate-grown fruit, this 100% Pinot Noir rosé is light and lively, very dry, with subtle fruit and a touch of minerality. Deliciously complex, it has vibrant aromas of fresh flowers and red berries that explode out of the glass. This extremely food friendly wine is also a perfect warm-weather aperitif. Sustainable.

9) Sainte Lucie 2010 "MiP" Rose $14.99 (France)
The name of this wine says it all: “Made In Provence”. It is a typical lighter-style rose perfect for parties, afternoons and gatherings throughout the hot season. It features light fruitiness, balanced acidity and a subtle body. Enjoy alongside anything or nothing as a refreshing summer treat!

10) Charles & Charles 2010 Rose $10.99 (USA)
Charles Bieler of Three Thieves/Rebel Wine/Bieler Père et Fils and Charles Smith of K Vintners/Magnificent Wine/Charles Smith Wines have teamed up on a delicious rosé offering. Their collaboration — aptly named "Charles and Charles" — has yielded a single-vineyard dry rosé made from 100% Syrah from the Wahluke Slope of Washington State. The nose is huge, all strawberry shortcake and rose petals, and the flavor is not sweet but tart, crisp, refreshing. Strawberry dominates, then some rounder smoother melon kicks in, and there is a hint of lime in the finish. Good acidity and structure make for a well constructed wine.

African-American vintners and winemakers

2011-06-09T16:45:00.003-04:00

Dominique on African-American vintners and winemakers

The African-American community can rightly take great pride in the accomplishments of its members in recent decades in a wide range of fields. African-Americans are now a highly visible presence in the arts, the media and academia as well as corporate America. In the wine world, however, they are only beginning to make their mark.Out of 900+ wineries in California, for example, fewer than ten are owned by African-Americans.

Although few in number, these producers have enjoyed phenomenal growth and critical success over recent years; they should, I think, be given greater recognition than they are by both the regular and the wine press for the quality of the products they craft and for their perseverance in pursuing and realizing their dream. They have proved that there is room for everybody and that great winemaking, like anything else, isn’t a question of color, religion or race, but simply a matter of skill, experience, knowledge and savoir-faire with a little help from Mother Nature.

Part of the problem has been the lack of information and wine education available about and directed toward the African-American community. In the last decade, however, significant efforts have been made to counter this lack. The year 2002 saw the creation of two associations to respond to the needs of the African-American community: The “African American Wine Tasting Society” (AAWTS) and "The Association of African American Vintners” (AAAV) which includes several Californian wineries, including Vision Cellars, Sharp Cellars, Running Tigers, Black Coyote, Stover Oaks, Theopolis Vineyards and Esterlina.

I bought for the store a few wines produced by Vision Cellars, a winery established in 1995 and dynamically run by its owner Mac McDonald, one of the pioneer African-American winemakers, who realized his dream of making wine and proudly released his first vintage in 1997. Although based in Windsor, a town in Sonoma, Mac produces a small quantity of a dozen different wines from various regions of California including: Mendocino county, the Santa Lucia Highlands, Russian River, Chileno Valley, and Marin County.

We carry three of his wine at the store, two different Pinot Noirs and a white blend. The wines are very good, balanced, complex and well crafted, and I did not buy them because they were a novelty, something to have in the store to show off. No, I bought them because the wines spoke for themselves, showing great character and taste. In fact, it was only after tasting the wines, while talking with my sales rep about the winery, that I realized that the winery was owned by an African-American family. I’m proud to have their wines on the shelves, and I do enjoy the reactions of people when I tell them the story of the winery. I invite you to visit the winery web site at www.visioncellars.com for more information.

Here are the three wines to discover available at the store:

2007 Vision Cellars White Wine (Blanc Gris) California $19.99

Vision's 2007 white is sourced mostly from Napa Sauvignon Blanc with a healthy splash of Pinot Gris from the Santa Lucia Highlands. Pale gold in the glass, it offers aromas of apple, citrus and tropical fruit that immediately greet the nose, joined by layers of grass and river rocks. Its mouth-feel is light and refreshing, with flavors of citrus, dried stone fruit and mineral vivid through the mid-palate. The fruity core is balanced by tangy acidity into a long finish that ends with crisp lemon and lime notes. Enjoy it on its own, or paired with light pastas, seafood and poultry.

2006 Vision Cellars Pinot Noir Gary's vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands California $49.99

This boutique Sonoma winery, established in 1995, is all about capturing the essence of the Pinot Noir grape. This is a single-vineyard Pinot sourced from Gary's Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands; tangy and rich, it shows lots of concentrated cherry and cocoa on the nose and palate along with a long, spicy finish. Silky, balanced and delicious; only 252 cases produced.

2007 Vision Cellars Pinot Noir Coster Vineyard Russian River valley California $48.99

This dark, rich Pinot is sourced from Russian River grapes. Its nose is redolent of plump red cherries, cola, spice and mint. Fresh and smooth in the mouth, it has flavors of plum, cherries, caramel and spice that unfold on the palate, supported by fine tannins into a spicy, persistent finish. Less than 300 cases produced.

You can also see and order this wine directly on our website at http://www.heightschateau.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=dmlzaW9uIGNlbGxhcnM=

Dominique

Judy on Women Winemakers

2011-05-11T14:15:00.002-04:00

Judy on Women Winemakers

Some time ago, I started to take note of the number of women winemakers I was encountering in my reading and research. I decided, on a whim, to keep a list, and today that list runs to more than 900 names, including those of winemakers in such unlikely places as Tunisia, Bulgaria, Israel and China. A few years ago, when I was invited to conduct a tasting for a group I meet with occasionally, I took "women winemakers" as my theme, and before I had a chance to present the wines one of the gentlemen in the group raised his hand and asked me what I hoped to prove; my answer was that I hoped to prove that I had nothing to prove! In the spirit of having "nothing to prove," then, let me introduce you to a few of my favorite women winemakers.

winemaker: Stacy Clark, graduate of UC Davis, winemaker at Pine Ridge in California's Napa Valley for more than 25 years
wine to try: Pine Ridge 2009 Chenin Blanc/Viognier @ $13.99

winemaker: Dorina Lindemann, native of Germany, trained oenologist, co-founder with her father, industrialist Jorge Bohm, of Quinta da Plansel in Portugal's Alentejo region
wine to try: Marques de Montemor 2008 Tinto @ $15.99

winemaker: Arianna Occhipinti, natural winemaker from Vittoria, Sicily, trained under her uncle at the COS Estate and at university in Milan, making her own wine since 2004 (when she was 21)
wine to try: Occhipinti 2008 Frappato @ $34.99

winemaker: Belinda Thomson, a "flying winemaker" from Australia (Crawford River), making some of the best white wines from down under and, since 2007, in Spain
wine to try: Shaya 2009 Old Vines Verdejo @ $14.99

From the Still to the Bottle: The White Lightning Revolution

2011-04-09T17:15:00.012-04:00

Like many bars, restaurants and imbibing businesses around Brooklyn, Heights Chateau has experienced a Moonshine Renaissance, if you will, going from zero to doubling our selection in un-aged spirits in 2010 and again in 2011. Is it the economy or the tremendous influence of New York's TUTHILLTOWN DISTILLERY that has created a clear spirits revolution during the last couple of years?

+/- From the Still to the Bottle: The White Lightning Revolution

Colin and David of KINGS COUNTY DISTILLERY have done an amazing job to help change Brooklynites' perceptions of Moonshine, although people still come in and look at the bottles with a mixture of fear, respect and curiosity. I'm here to tell you that only a small amount of bravery is really necessary (I need more for my daily commute than trying any of the clear spirits we have). Although not overflowing with the caramel vanilla creaminess of an average aged bourbon, these spirits have their own charms; the flavors are pure and clean, as corn whiskeys are allowed by law to be bottled without aging in oak and the others (barley, rye, oat, et al) see very little aging. As is the case with wine, oak aged spirits can cover impurities or poor vintages, but due to the nature of Moonshine, you are allowed access to flavors that become the base of aged spirits.

One of my favorite clear sprits in the store is RYE DOG from Cheryl Lins' Delaware Phoenix Distillery that truly challenges the misconception that clear sprits have uninteresting flavor profiles, as the first thing you'll notice about RYE DOG is the potently delicious smell of Rye literally jumping out of the glass. Smooth on the palate, even at 100 proof, this is a creamy and bright white dog! Cheryl also makes two small batch absinthes that are also on the cutting edge of what New York distilleries are putting out there.

Due to the nature of moonshine, most of what is on the market today comes from smaller distilleries in interesting areas of the country, including New York, Utah and Wisconsin. We stock almost 10 American white spirits, all listed below, and I encourage you to use them as base in your next Whiskey Sour, Manhattan, spiked punch bowl or simply as a reliable spirit in your flask.

ENJOY!

KENTUCKY
Buffalo Trace White Dog Mash #1 | 125 Proof | 375 ml $15.99

NEW YORK
Delaware Phoenix Rye Dog | 100 Proof | 750 ml | $62.99

Finger Lakes Distillery's Glen Thunder | 90 Proof | TWO SIZES AVAILABLE: 750ML | $22.99 + 375ml | $12.99

Kings County Moonshine 80 Proof | TWO SIZES AVAILABLE: 375ML | $36.99 + 200ML | $19.99

Tuthilltown Hudson New York Corn Whiskey | 92 Proof | 375 ml | $30.99

NORTH CAROLINA
Catdaddy Carolina Moonshine | 80 Proof | 750 ml | $20.99

UTAH
High West Silver Oat Whiskey | 80 Proof | 750ml | $41.99

VIRGINIA
Belmont Virginia Lightning | 100 Proof | 750 ml | $36.99

WISCONSIN
Death's Door White Whiskey | 80 Proof | 750 ml | $35.99

Contemporary Israeli Wines

2011-03-25T18:21:00.016-04:00

The Holy Land has had a contentious relationship with the planted grape vine. Religion has played a strong role in wine's position in daily life. Under Islamic rule grape growing and winemaking was deemphasized. The Jewish return to the Holy Land has changed all this. Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Chateau Lafite de Rothschild reintroduced French grape varietals and founded the Carmel Cooperative Winery in the late 1800's.

+/- Contemporary Israeli Wines

Today Israel has over 200 wineries. Grape growing spans the hillsides and mountains in the north to the desert and forest in the south. Winemakers are utilizing modern winemaking technology including drip irrigation and flash pasteurization techniques. Plantings are progressing in earnest in the cooler growing climates at higher and higher elevations. The Golan Heights, Upper Galilee and Judean Hills are producing wines that are currently recognized by international wine critics.

Holiday time is approaching and we thought this was the perfect time to introduce modern-day Israeli wines. The following two wines come from an historic land from which many of the most important Western religions trace their origins.

Teperberg Terra Sauvignon Blanc 2010 $18.99 http://www.heightschateau.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=5692~subid=566/index.html

This wine comes from Shomron, the coastal plain below Haifa. The grapes are grown in limestone soil and are influenced by the cool Mediterranean winds; the result is classic Sauvignon Blanc, clean, crisp and refreshing

Dalton Reserve Shiraz 2007 $32.99http://www.heightschateau.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=5693~subid=565/index.html

This Shiraz is sourced from vineyards in Galilee in the far north of the country, extending south from the border with Lebanon, where some of Israel's highest mountains are found; it is a deep, rich wine with vibrant notes of pepper and other spices.