Friday, July 15, 2011

Mediterranean Wines for a Brooklyn Summer by Alex


Though many out-of-town guests might disagree, summer is the best time of year here in Brooklyn. When the temperatures jump, there are a myriad of activities available on any given night of the week.  Whether it be outdoor dining, movies in the park, free concerts, backyard grilling, rooftop parties or just sitting on the front stoop, seemingly endless opportunities abound, far outpacing the time we actually have available.

+/- Mediterranean Wines for a Brooklyn Summer

And everywhere we go, we are eating. Here at Heights Chateau we are blessed to be at the epicenter of several amazing food trends and traditions. We sit on Atlantic Avenue, the former home to the largest Syrian and Lebanese commercial corridor on the East Coast. Just south of us lies Carrol Gardens, a long standing Italian-American neighborhood with a mix of traditional and innovative restaurants. And in between there are Smith and Court Streets, the parallel thoroughfares that host several eateries that have put Brooklyn on the locavore foodie map.

With heat, humidity and food in mind, here are some wines that are perfect for a simmering Brooklyn summer.

Domaine Porto Carras 2009 Assyrtiko $13.99

At a recent Middle Eastern dinner, this wine was a revelation. Domaine Porto Carras is situated on the slopes of Mount Meliton in Sithonia, Halkidiki where chalky soil and ocean breezes combine to create excellent growing conditions. Here they do wonders with Assyrtiko. Native to the island of Santorini, the grape is known for producing full-bodied and structured white wines with crisp acidity and fresh mineral notes. This version is medium-bodied with ample citrus fruit and complex mineral flavors that are balanced by vibrant acidity. It lends itself to seafood and shellfish, but will also work great with salads, fried appetizers, grilled chicken and lighter pastas. As for my recent dinner, this wine was a standout paired with Ouzi, the spicy chicken and rice pie that is the national dish of Jordan. Amazing.

Cusumano 2010 Insolia $9.99

Insolia is a somewhat under-the-radar Italian grape that is grown mostly in western Sicily and parts of Tuscany. Best known as a blending grape in Marsala, Insolia is receiving new attention in single-varietal wines, and it's easy to see why. Cusumano's version, made from grapes grown in the hills south of Palermo, is full of rich and creamy fruit that is balanced by a touch of nuttiness and lip-smacking acidity. It's perfectly priced for a casual weekday dinner, whether it be grilled fish, chicken kebabs or classic spicy pastas. However, my favorite pairing is with a piping hot Neopolitan pizza from one of our many amazing local Italian restaurants. The plumpness of the wine is perfect with the fresh Mozzarella and sparsely administered tangy tomato sauce.


La Soraia  2010 Gavi di Gavi $15.99

Hailing from Piedmont near the border with Liguria, Gavi is a white that gets a bit of a bad rap. The wine, made from the Cortese grape, is one of the greatest whites in Italy, yet after a period of intense popularity that led to overproduction and a decline in overall quality, it fell out of favor. This trend is finally reversing itself thanks in part to the establishment of the DOCG in 1998 and the reemergence of small family estates that have remained committed to traditional winemaking practices. That's good news for us, as a steady stream of high-quality, food-friendly Gavi is available once again.

La Soraia is one of the oldest producers of Gavi di Gavi DOCG. Made from estate-grown grapes, their wines are crafted according to simple principles of non-intrusive, low-impact viticulture. Their Gavi is both lush and delicate, offering light and elegant floral aromas and complex flavors of white flowers, almonds and a balanced streak of mineral. Like most Gavis, this wine is incredibly versatile with food, its bright acidity and mineral finish making it a hit with classic Mediterranean flavors. Try it with Chicken Paillard, Italian fish stew or my personal favorite, freshly-made deep-fried falafel balls. 

Can Feixes 2010 Blanc Seleccio $14.99
This is light, young and quaffable white wine at its best. Can Feixes is located high in the eastern mountains of Penedes, the only truly Mediterranean wine-growing region of Spain. It is a blend of the obscure and familiar: 40% Parellada, 30% Macabeo, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Malvaisía de Sitges. The wine is light and easy-drinking, yet aromatic, featuring aromas and subtle flavors of melon, mineral and citrus zest. Its uncomplicated nature makes it perfect as an aperitif but its intense focus from beginning to end also lends itself to endless food pairing possibilities. My ideal match would be a fresh yet substantial salad, like pickled watermelon with feta cheese, arugula and mint.

Need a pairing suggestion for your summer feast? Stop by the shop or drop us a line. We'd be more than happy to help!

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