The Lighter Side of Red

With the worst of the cold weather behind us, it's time to talk about brighter times and the lighter wines ahead. Even though it was one of the warmest winters on record here in Brooklyn, we're still excited to lighten up everything for Spring, from the clothes we wear to the foods we eat. For many wine drinkers, this means ditching their comforting full-bodied reds for refreshing whites and fruity pinks, but it doesn't have to be this way. There is a world of light-bodied red wines out there,  all perfectly suited for the food and activities we enjoy this time of year and in the warmer months that follow.

+/- The Lighter Side of Red

If you ask around for lighter reds, you're liable to get a variety of answers. This is because the notion of a wine's body is a vague and somewhat subjective concept. So before we get into some specifics, let's take a moment to think about what "light-bodied" means. For many of us, when we talk about the body of a wine, we're referring to its weight in the mouth. Among the many factors that come into play, three in particular offer some help at understanding what body means:

• Extraction is a term that refers to the intensity of the fruit in the wine. A wine can feel heavier or lighter based on how much fruit has been extracted out of the grape. With certain wines, one expects to find fuller, more concentrated fruit. However, if a wine is over-extracted, then it may showcase its fruit at the expense of delicacy, finesse and balance.


• Alcohol is another factor that can influence how we perceive body. Wines with high-alcohol content will generally feel bigger on the palate.


• Tannins, found in the skins, pips and stems of grapes, are responsible for the astringency and some of the mouth feel of red wine. Tannins are also found in the oak barrels in which many wines age.

Putting these three ideas together, we can define a wine's body as the combined influence of fruit extraction, alcohol and tannins. This gives us a starting point for the kind of wines we're looking for: A light-bodied red is a wine that will generally have less-extracted fruit, lower alcohol and lighter tannins.

For many people, there is already an easy option: Pinot Noir, the classic red wine that is supposed to pair with anything lighter than steak but heavier than a lettuce leaf. While this conventional wisdom isn't necessarily wrong, the fact is that many, if not the majority of Pinots these days are made in a much fuller style, exhibiting highly extracted fruit, elevated alcohol and big tannins resulting from aging in new oak barrels. Hence, without eliminating Pinot Noir completely from the equation, here are some light-bodied reds that you should have in your repertoire.

Gamay:
The classic grape of the Beaujolais is also grown to much acclaim in the Loire Valley. Generally, it has bright, fruity notes of red berries, zesty acidity and low tannins. The Cru Bourgeois, named after the villages where they grow are generally fuller bodied with more substantial tannins.

Cambon 10 Beaujolais $15.99 (12.5% ABV) From vineyards located between Morgon and Fleurie, this is a pure expression of Gamay fruit. Behind its deep red-purple color, this wine presents inviting and complex aromas of cherry-like fruit with earthy notes. It should be a perfect match for coq au vin.

Grolleau:
A thin-skinned grape, mostly grown in the Loire, Grolleau is best known for its use in rose in the Anjou region. However, winemakers are reviving this indigenous grape in red wines that feature rich, red berry aromas and low alcohol.

Cousin-Leduc 10 "Le Cousin" Rouge Grolleau $20.99 (13% ABV) "Le Cousin" is crafted with 100% Grolleau, and offers very expressive, inviting aromas of freshly crushed wild berries and grapes that mingle with earthy and mineral notes. Try pairing with fruity and spicy Moroccan chicken.

Mondeuse:
Grown mostly in the Savoy and Bugey regions of France, Mondeuse is a fascinating grape that is beginning to make a comeback. The wine, which characteristically exhibits soft, fruity aromas and light spice, was on the verge of extinction with less than 500 acres planted throughout France in the year 2000. Today the grape is being revived and has appeared in the United States and Italy, where it produces still soft but somewhat more extracted wines.

Cellier Palais 07 Mondeuse Vin de Pays $19.99 (12% ABV) This red from the Savoie has an earthy nose with floral notes of violet, roses and cloves. The palate is bright and juicy with great acidity, making it an excellent pair for charcuterie, mushrooms or roast poultry.

Grignolino:
Grown mostly in the Piedmonte region of Italy, Grignolino produced extremely light and fruity reds with bright acidity and low alcohol. Its name derives from the word "Grignole" which means "many pips." Sufficient care from the winemaker will ensure that the abundant pips do not translate into heavy, bitter tannins.

Heitz 08 Grignolino Napa Valley $17.99 (13.8% ABV) From vines lovingly planted in 1949, this is an anomaly of a wine, a light, fresh red produced in the heart of Cabernet country. Heitz's Grignolino comes in a bit high on the alcohol at 13.8%, but it is perfectly in balance, with a fresh floral bouquet complemented by the flavors of bright berry with a hint of orange peel.Try pairing with poached salmon, chicken or crostini.

Schiava:
Schiava is native to the Alto-Adige region of Italy, where it is grown mostly on high-altitude steep-sloped vineyards. It makes a light, easy-drinking wine that is perfect for drinking before or during dinner.

Castel Sallegg 08 Bischofsleiten $17.99 (13% ABV) The unpronounceable "Bischofsleiten" is made 100% from the Schiava grape; the wine has a vibrant ruby hue with a hint of nectarine and plum, good acidity and a clean finish. Its round, soft flavors should pair well with hearty scrambles, cured meats, poultry and pork.

Zweigelt:
This is the most popular grape in Austria, and relatively new on the scene, considering it was only invented in 1922 by crossing Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent (2 other reds that could be included on this list). At its best, Zweigelt offers bright floral aromas and exotic spices that are carried across its light-to-medium frame by racy acidity.

ZVY-GELT 09 Zweigelt $10.99 (13% ABV) Made from 10-40 year-old vines, this is a fun, unpretentious wine, featuring strawberry and red cherry flavors. After pressing, the wine is aged in stainless steel and used oak, imparting a wonderful balance between freshness and structure. This is a great choice for pairing with casual weeknight meals like pizza or pasta.

Blends:
Light red blends might be a bit more difficult to identify than single-varietal wines, but they are often worth the extra effort. Especially in Europe, one will find field blends made with light reds that are designed to be enjoyed young. Passetoutgrain is a perfect example. Made from at least ⅓ Pinot Noir and up to ⅔ Gamay, the wine can come from anywhere in Burgundy, but generally hails from the Cote Chalonnaise. Though its quality can vary wildly, a good bottle will offer soft, drinkable fruit and elegant structure, usually at a reasonable price point. Following are a few of our favorite lighter blends for you to enjoy.

Taupenot-Merme 2008 Passetoutgrain $16.99 (12.5% ABV) This is a fresh and fruity blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay from organically-farmed parcels just below Morey-St. Denis. Rich, aromatic and full of fruit, this budget Burgundy will pair with a variety of game and poultry.
Montjovet 10 La Kiuva $17.99 (12.5% ABV) From a tiny co-op in the Valle d'Aoste, this is a light, bright and zippy blend of mostly Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir. Characteristic black cherry and leather flavors meld with an alluring spiciness and refreshing acidity.
Laurent 09 Saint Pourcain Rouge $12.99 (13.5% ABV) From the Allier region in Auvergne, central France, Laurent Saint-Pourcain is an easy-drinking, juicy, earthy wine made of Gamay and Pinot Noir. It is a perfect spring and summer wine, to drink slightly chilled like a Beaujolais with simple dishes like cold cuts and charcuterie.

The Ides of March Meet the Irish Dram

    For me, March is the month to drink whiskey. It's cold, still dark, and often you're just hoping for the lamb to tame the lion. Given the St. Patrick's Day celebrations around town, it's hard not to mix it up with an Irish whiskey. For those of you who have spoken to us about our spirits selection, it's fair to say that we at Heights Chateau appreciate most good whisk(e)ys, with or without an "e". For those of you who love Irish whiskey, the last couple of years have brought many new expressions to New York, including many from the recently sold Cooley Distillery.

+/- The Ides of March Meet the Irish Dram

So what makes an Irish Whiskey Irish? Well, The Irish Whiskey Act of 1980 states:

A) Irish whiskey has to be distilled and aged in only a country with “Ireland” in the name. This means the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.

B) The spirit must be distilled to an ABV alcohol by volume level of less than 94.8% from a yeast-fermented mash of cereal grains (saccharified by the diastase of malt contained therein, with or without other natural diastases) in a way that the distillate has an aroma and flavour derived from the materials used.

C) The product must be aged for at least three years in wooden casks. There are no further requirements for the casks used.

D) If the spirits comprise a blend of two or more such distillates, the product is referred to as a "blended" Irish whiskey.



What about drinking Irish-owned? Although none of the distilleries in Ireland are currently (since December) Irish-owned, there still are a number of independent blended Irish whiskey brands, including Tullamore Dew. We are anxiously awaiting the cask strength of Red Breast 12 YR. Also, Tullamore Dew will be releasing a higher-end expression in the United States, but unfortunately not in time for your St. Patrick’s Day festivities.



Whether you’re toasting to Paddy, Caesar, or rites of Spring, stop by Heights Chateau to try Tara’s Top Five Irish Drams (in no particular order):

Knappogue 17YR Single Malt Irish Whiskey 750 ml | $89.99 | Knappogue Castle (pronounced nah-POGUE) is a small Irish whiskey named for a 15th-century castle in County Clare. Knappogue has created a new 17-year-old expression, aged in Bourbon barrels for 15 years, plus another 21 months in Oloroso Sherry casks, for a total of 17 years in “twin” wood. Soft, fruity with hints of Christmas spice, oranges and nutmeg. Like most Irish whiskeys, it is triple-distilled, not artificially colored and only slightly chill-filtered (Chill-filtering is a process by which whiskey is refrigerated to isolate certain fatty compounds, which are then strained out. It is a cosmetic process to prevent clouding during shipping.) 4,500 bottles produced. 80 Proof. Please Note: I believe chill-filtration does change the flavor of whisk(e)ys that use this technique. - Tara
Paddy Irish Whiskey | 1L | $35.99 | Finally available in the States, Paddy is a light and balanced Irish Whiskey. Paddy Whiskey was first produced by the Cork Distilleries Company in 1779 and was originally known as Cork Distillery Company Old Irish Whiskey. Made at the Jameson distillery in Midleton, Paddy whiskey is distilled three times and matured in oak casks for up to seven years.It has a high malt content in its blend compared to other Irish whiskeys. 80 Proof. It is Matthew’s favorite Irish Whiskey.
Greenore Single Grain 15YR Irish Whiskey | 750 ml | $105.99 | Produced at the Cooley Distillery (recently purchased by Beam), Greenore is a single-grain Irish whiskey aged 15 years in Bourbon casks. Greenore is made with only corn, and then aged in first-fill Bourbon casks. Greenore is found with several age statements and the 15 YR release is relatively rare (5,000 bottles made.)
The Irishman “The Original Clan” Irish Whiskey | 1 L | $28.99 | Created by Bernard and Rosemary Walsh (conveniently pictured on the back of the bottle), this pot still whiskey is 70% malt. Soft, balanced with flavors of spice and dried fruits, it is easy drinking at a good price for all your Paddy Day adventures. 80 Proof.
Bushmills Malt 16YR | 750 ml | $72.99 | Bushmills 16 YR is one of the most interesting mainstream Irish whiskeys currently available. It's matured in three different types of casks, first in traditional Bourbon barrels, then in Sherry butts and finally in Port pipes. It is amber to brown in color with a lovely nose of fruits, apple, orange and some vanilla. On the palate there is cocoa, fruit, and some spiciness. YUM. 80 Proof.

Port and Cold Weather, Perfect Together

    Which is not to say that Port can't be enjoyed fittingly at any other time of the year. And maybe we've been a bit culturally brainwashed by all those literary and cinematic depictions of the decanter of Port on the sideboard and a raging fire in the fireplace. Still, there's no denying that a glass of Port suffuses the lucky imbiber with a delicious sense of warmth and well-being that is most welcome on a cold winter night.

+/- Port and Cold Weather, Perfect Together

The Romance, the Ritual
There are any number of charming, even romantic traditions associated with drinking Port. The first has to do with opening the bottle, and the recommended method (which, I confess, I have never witnessed) is a bit more dramatic than simply pulling out the cork. For this exercise you need a special pair of tongs which are heated until they are bright cherry-red, then applied to the neck of the bottle and held there until the glow is gone; remove the tongs, then put a wet rag on the neck and, with a sharp twist, remove the neck of the bottle. Not terribly practical, but good entertainment for the guests at your next dinner party!

Then there is the practice of passing the Port decanter round the dinner table, always to the left, which I will let British wine writer Geoffrey Robertson describe: "The host, after pouring a very small quantity into his own glass first, is allowed to serve the lady on his right and left, so long as the decanter or bottle does not leave his hand. The decanter is then passed on to the left, the gentleman usually serving the lady as sometimes the decanters are very heavy. Should the decanter stop too long at someone's elbow, a gentle reminder from the thirstier guests, such as 'Mr. X, your "passport" is out of order,' or 'do you know the bishop of so-and-so, he never passed the Port,' will cause the wine to be circulated again, as no glass should ever be left empty. Another well known cry of despair is 'please polish the table,' as usually the bottom of the coaster is covered in green baize, and the host will then explain that the table is only polished properly when the Port is pushed round in its coaster regularly." Nobody seems to know the origin of this custom — some suggest the Royal Navy, where, of course, "port" means "left" — but the simple explanation probably lies in the fact that most people are right-handed and it is easier for them to pass wine that way.

The third custom has nothing to do with romance and everything to do with practicality, the custom of decanting vintage Port. Vintage Port, as it ages in bottle, throws off a significant amount of (often chunky) sediment, quite tannic and bitter in character, not what you want to find in your post-prandial glass of cheer. To eliminate the sediment, you should pass the wine through very finely textured cheesecloth set in a funnel or coffee-filter holder (and be careful to buy untreated cheesecloth, as some of what is in the marketplace is intended for waxing your car). A recent dinner guest, feeling that bringing wine to our house was equivalent to bringing the proverbial coals to Newcastle, offered instead a bottle from his cellar of 1985 vintage Port; he wisely (and courteously) decanted the bottle at home, rinsed out the original bottle and replaced the wine, as to have done otherwise would have risked reintegrating the sediment with the wine.

What Makes Port "Port"?
Or, more properly, what makes it "Oporto," after the city in which it originates, the name of "Port" (like that of "Champagne") having long ago been traduced by pathetic imitators. Port starts out like any other blended red wine; but well before all the natural sugars in the grapes have had the chance to convert to alcohol the winemaker adds brandy to the wine, thus at the same time stopping the fermentation process, leaving natural residual sugar in the wine, and significantly bolstering the level of alcohol. Tom Stevenson, another of my favorite Brit wine writers, narrates (and simultaneously explains the long-standing English connection): "In 1678, two Englishmen were sent by a Liverpool wine merchant to Viana do Castello, north of Oporto, to learn the wine trade. Holidaying up the River Douro, they were regally entertained by the Abbot of Lamego. Finding his wine 'very agreeable, sweetish, and extremely smooth,' they asked what made it exceptional among all others tasted on their journey. The Abbot confessed to doctoring the wine with brandy, but the Englishmen were so pleased with the result this had that they purchased the entire stock and shipped it home."

The Sweetness Issue
I got hooked on Port a long time ago, and it was my (mis)fortune that my first experience with it was with one of the latter-day classics, the 1963 Quinta do Noval. It was then that I started referring to Port as the adult's lollipop. I think one reason Port is not as widely appreciated in this country as it should be is that many of us still suffer from a misguided idea of a sophisticated palate, namely "dry is good, sweet is bad." Yes, Port is sweet, given how it is made, but it is a natural sweetness, and it has a place at the savory end of the food-pairing line as well. True, it's not for diabetics, but for the rest of us, in reasonable amounts, it is a delicious indulgence; in fact, forget the sweet dessert and bring out some ripe Stilton, some salted almonds, and the Port.

It's Not as Complicated as It Looks
I think the other problem for Port acceptance could well be the language of the label; it can seem a bit intimidating, especially when the "language" in question is in Portuguese. So let's conclude with a very brief "language" lesson. If I am advising someone wanting to buy a Port I tend to start at the most basic level by asking for a stylistic preference: "fruity" or "nutty"? The answer to "fruity" is Ruby Port, while the answer to "nutty" is Tawny Port. Every Port house makes a Ruby and a Tawny as its entry-level wines, and we move up from there in degrees of complexity, so here goes:

Ruby Port  a young Port bottled after two or three years in bulk (probably cement or stainless steel)
Tawny Port: Ruby's cousin, made lighter or browner usually by the addition of some white Port (which was made in the traditional way, but with white grapes)
LBV Port :  which stands for "late bottled vintage," ruby from a single year, bottled after four to six years of ageing
Aged Tawny :  usually marked 10-year, 20-year, etc...light, tawny-colored Port which attained its color not through the addition of white Port but rather through extensive ageing in wood barrel for the number of years indicated
Colheita :  a blend of tawny Ports from a single vintage aged several years in wood
True Vintage Port :  Port from a single vintage, bottled after only two or three years in cask, then left to mature in bottle in the consumer's own cellars
True Vintage Port represents a mere 1% of all Port produced and is made/offered only in years when all the Port houses agree that the vintage in question was good enough to warrant them "declaring" it a vintage year
Single Quinta Vintage Port :  called "poor man's vintage Port," produced from a single wine farm from a year not "declared" as a vintage, a way of experiencing the style of vintage Port without having to pay as much or wait as long
Crusted Port :  a blend of different years, bottled early without filtration so that it matures in the bottle and has a heavy sediment

Now that you understand the different style of Port it's time to find out which style you prefer. Going back to the original "fruity/nutty" characterization, let's organize a Port Party; invite a few friends over and open a bottle each of a good Ruby and Tawny from the same producer... the differences will be obvious, and so should your preferences. Then you can move up the ladder a bit, as per the following recommendations.

Ruby Port by Sandeman  16.99 each Tawny Port by Sandeman 16.99 each Ruby Port by Quinta do Infantado  16.99 each Tawny Port by Quinta do Infantado 16.99 each Noval NV Noval Black (in the "ruby" direction) a new style of Port, big, rich and seductive with elegant fruit flavors that lead to a nice touch of spice 19.99 Churchills 03 LBV (in the "nutty" direction) spends four years in oak before bottling, resulting in a lush, medium-bodied Port with concentrated and balanced dark fruit flavors complemented by a hints tobacco and leather  29.99

Falling for the Finger Lakes

    Looking on a map, you might find it easy to miss the Finger Lakes. They don't look much like lakes at all, more like scratches in the topography left upon the landscape by some mythical deity. As a result, people are often surprised to learn that this unassuming area, located in the central-west New York just below Lake Ontario, produces some of the best wines in the United States.

+/- Falling For The Finger Lakes

The lakes were originally river beds that were gouged out over thousands and thousands of years by the slow movement of glaciers. The deep, skinny formations that were left behind created unique microclimates that are ideal for growing grapes. The lakes have a moderating effect on the surrounding land, preserving heat into the fall harvest season and cold in the spring, which holds back bud growth until after harmful frosts have passed.
This fall we made two separate visits to explore the region and taste some of the excellent wines that are being produced there. What we found was a wine country unlike any other, filled with small, fiercely independent but community-oriented wineries, as well as race-car enthusiasts, Amish produce stands, fish shacks and four-star restaurants.

Although we enjoyed several reds, particularly those made from Cabernet Franc and Lemberger, the real stars were the food-friendly whites, especially those made from German varietals like Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The best showed a fantastic balance between floral aromatics, depth of fruit and crisp acidity that should make them a hit at the dinner table. Whether it be a spicy stir fry or a classic holiday turkey dinner, these wines are perfect for those looking for something substantial and refreshing.

Atwater Estates

Started in 1999 by entrepreneur Ted Marks, Atwater Estates is a boutique winery that produces around 8500 cases a year. It is located on the south-east shore of Seneca Lake, in the heart of the so-called Banana Belt, a microclimate that has the warmest temperatures in the region. The vineyards have western exposure, and stretch down a gentle slope from Route 414 to the lakeshore.

We met Ted at the tasting room, an inviting and comfortable space with a drop-dead gorgeous view of the lake. That day had seen some heavy thunder showers, but by the time we arrived at Atwater, the sun was shining brightly and the vineyards were showing their best. Ted led us through a tasting of his full line of whites and reds as well as sparkling and dessert wines. The time passed effortlessly as he told us the story of the winery, talked about his winemaking philosophy and taught us a lot about what makes the Finger Lakes such a unique place. Enjoying these top-notch wines with Ted and his friendly staff, we clearly understood why Atwater sells most of its wines right out of the tasting room.

AtwaterEstate 2010 Dry Riesling $17.99

This is a wine of classic Finger Lakes character and value: the nose is herbal with fennel and lavender aromas lifting classic lime and subtle peach character, and the palate is lively, driven by intense lime flavors with peach and a little pear too. Soft and fruity when it first hits your palate, the wine gains focus through the midpalate and shows good length on the finish.

AtwaterEstate 2010 Gewurztraminer $18.99

Produced from twenty-year old vines, this Gewurztraminer is done in a dry style that is both refreshing and complex. Aromas of tangerine, lemon and peach are joined by notes of herbs and a touch of spice. It is rich on the palate, with excellent fruit weight that is balanced by very crisp acidity that lingers into a smooth finish.

AtwaterEstate NV Bubble Riesling $14.99
 
Atwater Bubble is redolent of peach, apricot and lemon with a touch of sweetness that is mouth-pleasing without being cloying. We imagine it will be the perfect aperitif for the holidays, and a mainstay at brunches throughout the winter.


Hermann J Wiemer Vineyard

Hermann Wiemer brought a family tradition of winemaking from Germany's Mosel Valley to Dundee on the western shore of the Seneca Lake in the 1970s. In 2007 he sold the operations to winemaker Fred Marwarth, who along with partner Oskar Bynke, continues to produce internationally-recognized wines, vintage after vintage.

The winery is located on the original plot of land where Hermann first planted vines in 1976. A restored 90-year old barn houses the winemaking facilities along with the winery's offices, shop and tasting room. If the weather is nice you can taste wine out on the patio but it's better to stay inside where you can taste at a long bar right next to the towering stainless steel tanks and watch the operation in action.

We were lucky enough to spend a few minutes with Fred during a brief downtime between emptying tanks, bottling and preparing for harvest. His winemaking philosophy is non-interventionist, based on the integrity of the fruit and respect for the land, evidenced by the traditional practices exhibited both in the field and in the tank. For example, Fred is acutely aware of the use of sulfur on the grapes and explained how his spray program was employed to limit sulfites in the finished product. It takes only a few sips to see that this pioneer of Finger Lakes winemaking will be at the front of the pack for years to come.

Wiemer 2007 Field Cuvee $13.99

An earthy blend of Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the Field Cuvee is a medium-bodied red with exceptional balance that will appeal to many different tastes.

Wiemer 2009 Frost Cuvee $11.99

The Frost Cuvee is a special blend, designed each year to reflect the qualities and outcomes of the particular growing season. Primarily Riesling and Gewurztraminer with a little Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir blended in, the wine is refreshing yet complex; there are bright fruit and floral notes up front while light pear and a touch of spice grace the palate.

Wiemer 2010 Dry Riesling $16.99

Wiemer's signature wine, the Dry Riesling is a blend of fruit from all three vineyard sites. It offers hints of lime and orange blossom on the nose, a succulent palate of apricot and grapefruit, and trademark minerality that persists into a smooth finish.

Wiemer 2010 Chardonnay $16.99
This is a new-world white with old-world sensibilities. Aromatic notes of orange and peach are complemented by just a touch of oak on the nose. The fruit is medium-bodied but invigorating on the palate, balanced by fresh acidity that leads to a crisp, pleasing finish.

Ravines Wine Cellars

Spending time in the Finger Lakes, we started recognizing some common themes among the wineries we visited, most noticeably their independent spirit, their congenial demeanor and their understated, but unmistakable, ambition for excellence. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the tasting room at Ravines Wine Cellars. Founded in 2000 by Morton and Lisa Hallgren, the winery sits on the eastern shore of Keuka Lake. This location, while appearing somewhat isolated from other wineries on a map, is actually ideally suited for growing high-quality grapes. The vineyard, situated on a steep slope at the widest section of the lake, benefits from generous exposure, excellent drainage and moderate temperatures. Guided by Lisa's vision and Morton's traditional winemaking techniques, the winery has been a success since its first vintage.

After a leisurely drive through beautiful farmland dotted with produce stands and the odd horse-and-buggy, we arrived at Ravines late in the afternoon to find a bright and airy tasting room, decorated to evoke Morton's native Provence. In the cellar below sits the "Ravinous Kitchen," a humble but comfortable space dedicated to local artisanal food. We were happy to learn that Lisa was doing extra duty behind the tasting table, and while she must have been exhausted after a long, busy day of dealing with throngs of tourists, she generously made the time to take us through her wines, expertly pairing them with local cheeses and chocolates. The experience revealed the Finger Lakes at its best and suggested that with this level of quality and consistency, the region won't be a local secret for much longer.

Ravines 2010 Keuka Village White $11.99
 
This is a French-American hybrid blend (Cayuga White and Vignoles) that breaks down the boundary between traditional hybrid wines and vinifera wines. The nose shows great fruity intensity with aromas of melon, peach and mango. This is a very lively, fresh, fruity off-dry wine with just enough sweetness to balance the acidity.

Ravines 2010 Keuka Village Red $11.99
 
A blend of Cabernet Franc and Noiret, this red is bright and fruit-forward with peppery hints and soft tannins. Its bright acidity and earthy finish make it a fine pair with hearty soups, meats and cheeses.

Ravines 2010 Dry Riesling $14.99
 
Soft apple and mineral aromas are joined by a hint of petrol on the nose. Medium-bodied, it has crisp flavors of stone fruit and mineral that are supported by a potent streak of acidity. Its smooth, clean finish invites another sip.

Ravines 2008 Cabernet Franc $17.99
 
This Cabernet Franc is made in a classic fruit-forward style with ripe red currant and blackberry aromas. Pretty fruit flavors are complemented by notes of earth and spice in the midpalate, balanced by soft tannins and zippy acidity into a dry finish that ends with a touch of oak.

Artisanal Spirits, The New Wave by Matthew

After a brief summer hiatus, Matthew returns to "The Focused Palate" with an up-to-date take on artisanal spirits

American ingenuity and propensity for risk-taking have of late taken hold in the world of hand-crafted spirits, as many enterprising souls are mimicking the creative drive behind the microbrew industry. The initial success of distillers with small-batch bourbons has now spread to the production of local vodkas and gins. The surge is definitely on: there are today more than 200 small distilleries in operation, and that number is growing at the rate of 25-30 new facilities a year. More than half the states are home to artisanal distilleries, with Oregon, Colorado, California, Michigan and New York leading the way. Just this past week I was offered a locally-made vodka, a corn whiskey from Texas, and three different barley whiskies from Tennessee.

+/- Artisinal Spirits, The New Wave

Why is this all happening now? A little bit of history before I answer that question. Once upon a time, small distilleries were quite common in farming communities across America; then came Prohibition. After repeal in 1933, wine and beer production came back on line fairly quickly (some would say they had never really gone away), but the powers that be considered hard liquor more harmful than wine or beer and therefore set the fees for distilling licenses so high that only large-scale operations could afford them. Over the past decade or so, however, many states have considerably lowered the cost of these licenses and lessened restrictions in other ways, such as permitting on-premise tastings and sales of spirits at production facilities and retail outlets, thus opening the doors for the artisanal spirits movement. And interest has been further heightened by the arrival nationwide of the new breed of bartenders — mixologists, if you will — who make their reputations by devising trendy drinks using specialty alcohols.

What's the appeal? Local flavors, for one thing. Think about a single-malt from Oregon that has been aged in barrels made from air-dried Oregon oak, or a Minnesota vodka  made from wheat and rye from local farmers, or one from Kansas made from grain from the heartland. Another plus is variety: each distiller is making a unique product according to the dictates of his or her palate. And a third factor is limited production resulting in greater quality control: big distillers tend to keep every drop of alcohol they produce, on the assumption that it can be processed into something drinkable, while small producers are more likely to discard anything even slightly off in order to preserve their newly-established reputations. I'll conclude with a quote from Colin Levi, owner of Washington State's distillery, It's Five O'Clock Somewhere: "That's the beauty of being an artisan craft distillery. We're not bound to producing the same product day in and day out. Instead we're committed to unique, interesting liquors that are handmade from local ingredients. The big companies don't do it that way."

Is local better? Is smaller better? Is artisanal better? Try one of the following choices for yourself and find out!

Balcones Baby Blue Corn Whisky
This is a unique corn whisky from Texas made from atole, a roasted blue corn meal; it has the freshness and verve of traditional corn whisky but with a refined complexity. With a nose of melted butter, vanilla, and baking spices, it has a round nuttiness with toasty overtones and a smooth finish.
$49.99 (750ml)
Corsair Triple Smoke Whiskey
Operating out of Bowling Green, Kentucky, and now also Nashville, Tennessee, Andrew Webber and Derek Bell are mavericks at heart, dedicated to producing hand-crafted spirits using a combination of traditional distillation methods and innovative techniques. Triple Smoke is made from three different types of smoked barley, one smoked with cherry wood, another smoked with peat, and the third smoked with beech; this single malt is then pot distilled and barreled in new charred oak barrels. The result is deeply complex, smoky, buttery and rich, with nuanced flavors of fruit, toffee, and peat.
$47.99 (750ml)


Delaware Phoenix Distillery
Cheryl Lins, New York's very first producer of absinthe, has now turned her attention and skills to the distilling of grain spirits . . . and she is already pulling down gold medals for her efforts. Listen to Cheryl herself: "I personally believe that these awards acknowledge my hard work and some skill that goes into the making of these spirits where corners are not cut in order to make a buck. The production methods for my spirits harken back  to an era when people worked the land and the land provided people what they needed."


Single-Barrel Artisanal Corn Whiskey
Made from 80% organic cracked corn plus a mix of malted barley and malted rye, aged in used oak barrels, this is a distinguished, mellow corn whiskey meant for sipping.
$24.99 (375ml)

Single-Barrel Artisanal Rye Whiskey
Made from 100% local (Walton, NY) rye, 10% malted and 90% grain, each barrel of this whiskey is a unique expression combining grain, distillation, oak, and storage environment for a rich, deep, bold flavor.
$42.99 (750ml)

Rye Dog Artisanal Unaged Whiskey
This clear whiskey uses the same blend as the single-barrel rye but gets no oak treatment; it is full-flavored and highly focused, perhaps more like an eau-de-vie that a whiskey.
$39.99 (750ml)

Mediterranean Wines for a Brooklyn Summer by Alex

Though many out-of-town guests might disagree, summer is the best time of year here in Brooklyn. When the temperatures jump, there are a myriad of activities available on any given night of the week.  Whether it be outdoor dining, movies in the park, free concerts, backyard grilling, rooftop parties or just sitting on the front stoop, seemingly endless opportunities abound, far outpacing the time we actually have available.

+/- Mediterranean Wines for a Brooklyn Summer

And everywhere we go, we are eating. Here at Heights Chateau we are blessed to be at the epicenter of several amazing food trends and traditions. We sit on Atlantic Avenue, the former home to the largest Syrian and Lebanese commercial corridor on the East Coast. Just south of us lies Carrol Gardens, a long standing Italian-American neighborhood with a mix of traditional and innovative restaurants. And in between there are Smith and Court Streets, the parallel thoroughfares that host several eateries that have put Brooklyn on the locavore foodie map.

With heat, humidity and food in mind, here are some wines that are perfect for a simmering Brooklyn summer.

Domaine Porto Carras 2009 Assyrtiko $13.99

At a recent Middle Eastern dinner, this wine was a revelation. Domaine Porto Carras is situated on the slopes of Mount Meliton in Sithonia, Halkidiki where chalky soil and ocean breezes combine to create excellent growing conditions. Here they do wonders with Assyrtiko. Native to the island of Santorini, the grape is known for producing full-bodied and structured white wines with crisp acidity and fresh mineral notes. This version is medium-bodied with ample citrus fruit and complex mineral flavors that are balanced by vibrant acidity. It lends itself to seafood and shellfish, but will also work great with salads, fried appetizers, grilled chicken and lighter pastas. As for my recent dinner, this wine was a standout paired with Ouzi, the spicy chicken and rice pie that is the national dish of Jordan. Amazing.

Cusumano 2010 Insolia $9.99

Insolia is a somewhat under-the-radar Italian grape that is grown mostly in western Sicily and parts of Tuscany. Best known as a blending grape in Marsala, Insolia is receiving new attention in single-varietal wines, and it's easy to see why. Cusumano's version, made from grapes grown in the hills south of Palermo, is full of rich and creamy fruit that is balanced by a touch of nuttiness and lip-smacking acidity. It's perfectly priced for a casual weekday dinner, whether it be grilled fish, chicken kebabs or classic spicy pastas. However, my favorite pairing is with a piping hot Neopolitan pizza from one of our many amazing local Italian restaurants. The plumpness of the wine is perfect with the fresh Mozzarella and sparsely administered tangy tomato sauce.


La Soraia  2010 Gavi di Gavi $15.99

Hailing from Piedmont near the border with Liguria, Gavi is a white that gets a bit of a bad rap. The wine, made from the Cortese grape, is one of the greatest whites in Italy, yet after a period of intense popularity that led to overproduction and a decline in overall quality, it fell out of favor. This trend is finally reversing itself thanks in part to the establishment of the DOCG in 1998 and the reemergence of small family estates that have remained committed to traditional winemaking practices. That's good news for us, as a steady stream of high-quality, food-friendly Gavi is available once again.

La Soraia is one of the oldest producers of Gavi di Gavi DOCG. Made from estate-grown grapes, their wines are crafted according to simple principles of non-intrusive, low-impact viticulture. Their Gavi is both lush and delicate, offering light and elegant floral aromas and complex flavors of white flowers, almonds and a balanced streak of mineral. Like most Gavis, this wine is incredibly versatile with food, its bright acidity and mineral finish making it a hit with classic Mediterranean flavors. Try it with Chicken Paillard, Italian fish stew or my personal favorite, freshly-made deep-fried falafel balls. 

Can Feixes 2010 Blanc Seleccio $14.99
This is light, young and quaffable white wine at its best. Can Feixes is located high in the eastern mountains of Penedes, the only truly Mediterranean wine-growing region of Spain. It is a blend of the obscure and familiar: 40% Parellada, 30% Macabeo, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Malvaisía de Sitges. The wine is light and easy-drinking, yet aromatic, featuring aromas and subtle flavors of melon, mineral and citrus zest. Its uncomplicated nature makes it perfect as an aperitif but its intense focus from beginning to end also lends itself to endless food pairing possibilities. My ideal match would be a fresh yet substantial salad, like pickled watermelon with feta cheese, arugula and mint.

Need a pairing suggestion for your summer feast? Stop by the shop or drop us a line. We'd be more than happy to help!

Why drink anything else? | Tara on Pink Wine

Before I started at Heights Chateau, I worked in a wine store/wine bar where we had maybe 15 rosés, tops. Since coming to Heights Chateau in 2007, I've worked three summers where our PINK section consistently grows, now hovering somewhere around 75-80 producers. I think it's safe to say that the wines that exist somewhere between red and white have a special place in Matthew's heart and now mine. Even Dominique is under the influence of PINK, buying a three-liter BOX of rosé from Buzet.

+/- Why drink anything else? Tara on Pink Wine

(2010 Vinity Buzet Rose 3L Box $32.99) Drinking rosé year round is not unheard of, especially at Heights Chateau where we recommend it for food pairings year round, but summertime had another aspect which makes rosé even more palatable: hot weather.

While most of our customers LOVE a good rosé, I think there are still some misconceptions about wine that is neither white or red. The most tragic of these are:

1) All pink wine is sweet. -> False. We do stock a few sweeties, but virtually all of the roses in the store are dry. If dry is key, Provence or Loire is where it's at. If you want to go fairly fruity, try a rosé from Anjou or Tavel. If you want it super sweet, you might just head for the White Zinfandel and call it a day.

2) Rosé is made by adding red wine to white wine. -> False. Most producers choose to macerate the skins with the juice for a short time after crushing to impart color and flavor. And therein lies a major clue to the character of the wine: generally speaking, the deeper the color the more intensely fruity the wine will be.

3) Rosé doesn't go with food. ->False. For me, rosé paired with summer food is ideal, as it offers the best of both red and white wines.

Whether sparkly, organic or just plain good, we have one of best rosé selections (if I do say so myself) in Brooklyn for every palate, meal and/or budget. Stop by and find a new favorite!

Tara's TOP TEN favorites for this summer:

1) Chemin de Bassac 2010 Isa Rosé $13.99 (France)
Berry and cherry flavors with a medium body, impressive balance, a smooth mouth feel, and a persistent crisp and dry finish.Organic.

2) Chateau d'Oupia 2010 Minervois Rosé $13.99 (France)
This charming organic rosé is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Mourvèdre. Tangy strawberry flavors are complemented by citrus, spice and a hint of mineral.Organic.

3) Raffault 2010 Chinon Rosé $17.99 (France)
100% Cabernet Franc, with bright and lively strawberry fruit and a long, succulent finish.Natural.

4) Bio Vio 2010 Rossese di Albenga $20.99 (Italy)
The classic red wine of Liguria, Rossese is best served with first courses, red meat and seasoned cheeses. Light bodied and well rounded, with flavors of cherries, strawberries and black currants with good finesse and complexity, it is best consumed fresh and young, within two years of the harvest.Organic.

5) Croix du Prieur 2010 Provence Rosé $15.99 (France)
La Croix du Prieur is a certified organic winery located in the shadows of Mount Sainte Victoire. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, and Syrah, the wine is crisp and tangy with berry and citrus flavors, a Domaine Ott "lookalike" at a fraction of the price.Organic.

6) Lopez de Heredia 2000 Rosado Tondonia $24.99 (Spain)
Lopez de Heredia is noted for extensively aging their wines, releasing them to the market only when they believe they are fully matured; their reds generally remain in the winery's cellars for upwards of 10-20 years. In typical fashion for them, their rosé spends three years in oak, followed by additional bottle aging. Mostly Grenache, with a little Tempranillo and Viura blended in, the wine shows aromas of orange zest, peach, and a slightly silky nuttiness.Organic.

7) La Selve 2010 L'Audacieuse Rosé $17.99 (France)
Chateau La Selve is a dynamic new (started only in 2002)  producer in the Ardèche. "L'Audacieuse" is their top rosé cuvée, a blend primarily of Grenache and Syrah with some Cinsault and Viognier added in. The wine shows unusual depth and complexity for a rosé; fresh and lively, it has abundant mineral notes, a beautifully balanced acidic structure and elegant notes of fresh raspberry. Biodynamic.
(P.S. Try their entry level pink too!)


8) Lauverjat 2010 Sancerre Rosé $18.99 (France)
Made by Katherine and Christian Lauverjat entirely from estate-grown fruit, this 100% Pinot Noir rosé is light and lively, very dry, with subtle fruit and a touch of minerality. Deliciously complex, it has vibrant aromas of fresh flowers and red berries that explode out of the glass. This extremely food friendly wine is also a perfect warm-weather aperitif.Sustainable.

9) Sainte Lucie 2010 "MiP" Rose $14.99 (France)
The name of this wine says it all: "Made In Provence". It is a typical lighter-style rose perfect for parties, afternoons and gatherings throughout the hot season. It features light fruitiness, balanced acidity and a subtle body. Enjoy alongside anything or nothing as a refreshing summer treat!

10) Charles & Charles 2010 Rose $10.99 (USA)
Charles Bieler of Three Thieves/Rebel Wine/Bieler Père et Fils and Charles Smith of K Vintners/Magnificent Wine/Charles Smith Wines have teamed up on a delicious rosé offering. Their collaboration — aptly named "Charles and Charles" — has yielded a single-vineyard dry rosé made from 100% Syrah from the Wahluke Slope of Washington State. The nose is huge, all strawberry shortcake and rose petals, and the flavor is not sweet but tart, crisp, refreshing. Strawberry dominates, then some rounder smoother melon kicks in, and there is a hint of lime in the finish. Good acidity and structure make for a well constructed wine.