Cheryl Lins, New York's very first producer of absinthe, has now turned her attention and skills to the distilling of grain spirits . . . and she is already pulling down gold medals for her efforts. Listen to Cheryl herself: "I personally believe that these awards acknowledge my hard work and some skill that goes into the making of these spirits where corners are not cut in order to make a buck. The production methods for my spirits harken back to an era when people worked the land and the land provided people what they needed."The African-American community can rightly take great pride in the accomplishments of its members in recent decades in a wide range of fields. African-Americans are now a highly visible presence in the arts, the media and academia as well as corporate America. In the wine world, however, they are only beginning to make their mark.Out of 900+ wineries in California, for example, fewer than ten are owned by African-Americans.
Although few in number, these producers have enjoyed phenomenal growth and critical success over recent years; they should, I think, be given greater recognition than they are by both the regular and the wine press for the quality of the products they craft and for their perseverance in pursuing and realizing their dream. They have proved that there is room for everybody and that great winemaking, like anything else, isn't a question of color, religion or race, but simply a matter of skill, experience, knowledge and savoir-faire with a little help from Mother Nature.
Part of the problem has been the lack of information and wine education available about and directed toward the African-American community. In the last decade, however, significant efforts have been made to counter this lack. The year 2002 saw the creation of two associations to respond to the needs of the African-American community: The "African American Wine Tasting Society" (AAWTS) and "The Association of African American Vintners" (AAAV) which includes several Californian wineries, including Vision Cellars, Sharp Cellars, Running Tigers, Black Coyote, Stover Oaks, Theopolis Vineyards and Esterlina.
I bought for the store a few wines produced by Vision Cellars, a winery established in 1995 and dynamically run by its owner Mac McDonald, one of the pioneer African-American winemakers, who realized his dream of making wine and proudly released his first vintage in 1997. Although based in Windsor, a town in Sonoma, Mac produces a small quantity of a dozen different wines from various regions of California including: Mendocino county, the Santa Lucia Highlands, Russian River, Chileno Valley, and Marin County.
We carry three of his wine at the store, two different Pinot Noirs and a white blend. The wines are very good, balanced, complex and well crafted, and I did not buy them because they were a novelty, something to have in the store to show off. No, I bought them because the wines spoke for themselves, showing great character and taste. In fact, it was only after tasting the wines, while talking with my sales rep about the winery, that I realized that the winery was owned by an African-American family. I'm proud to have their wines on the shelves, and I do enjoy the reactions of people when I tell them the story of the winery. I invite you to visit the winery web site at www.visioncellars.com for more information.
Here are the three wines to discover available at the store:
2007 Vision Cellars White Wine (Blanc Gris) California $19.99
Vision's 2007 white is sourced mostly from Napa Sauvignon Blanc with a healthy splash of Pinot Gris from the Santa Lucia Highlands. Pale gold in the glass, it offers aromas of apple, citrus and tropical fruit that immediately greet the nose, joined by layers of grass and river rocks. Its mouth-feel is light and refreshing, with flavors of citrus, dried stone fruit and mineral vivid through the mid-palate. The fruity core is balanced by tangy acidity into a long finish that ends with crisp lemon and lime notes. Enjoy it on its own, or paired with light pastas, seafood and poultry.
2006 Vision Cellars Pinot Noir Gary's vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands California $49.99
This boutique Sonoma winery, established in 1995, is all about capturing the essence of the Pinot Noir grape. This is a single-vineyard Pinot sourced from Gary's Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands; tangy and rich, it shows lots of concentrated cherry and cocoa on the nose and palate along with a long, spicy finish. Silky, balanced and delicious; only 252 cases produced.
2007 Vision Cellars Pinot Noir Coster Vineyard Russian River valley California $48.99
This dark, rich Pinot is sourced from Russian River grapes. Its nose is redolent of plump red cherries, cola, spice and mint. Fresh and smooth in the mouth, it has flavors of plum, cherries, caramel and spice that unfold on the palate, supported by fine tannins into a spicy, persistent finish. Less than 300 cases produced.
You can also see and order this wine directly on our website at http://www.heightschateau.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=dmlzaW9uIGNlbGxhcnM=
–Dominique
Some time ago, I started to take note of the number of women winemakers I was encountering in my reading and research. I decided, on a whim, to keep a list, and today that list runs to more than 900 names, including those of winemakers in such unlikely places as Tunisia, Bulgaria, Israel and China. A few years ago, when I was invited to conduct a tasting for a group I meet with occasionally, I took "women winemakers" as my theme, and before I had a chance to present the wines one of the gentlemen in the group raised his hand and asked me what I hoped to prove; my answer was that I hoped to prove that I had nothing to prove! In the spirit of having "nothing to prove," then, let me introduce you to a few of my favorite women winemakers.
Winemaker: Stacy Clark, graduate of UC Davis, winemaker at Pine Ridge in California's Napa Valley for more than 25 years
wine to try: Pine Ridge 2009 Chenin Blanc/Viognier @ $13.99
Winemaker: Dorina Lindemann, native of Germany, trained oenologist, co-founder with her father, industrialist Jorge Bohm, of Quinta da Plansel in Portugal's Alentejo region
wine to try: Marques de Montemor 2008 Tinto @ $15.99
Winemaker: Arianna Occhipinti, natural winemaker from Vittoria, Sicily, trained under her uncle at the COS Estate and at university in Milan, making her own wine since 2004 (when she was 21)
wine to try: Occhipinti 2008 Frappato @ $34.99
Winemaker: Belinda Thomson, a "flying winemaker" from Australia (Crawford River), making some of the best white wines from down under and, since 2007, in Spain
wine to try: Shaya 2009 Old Vines Verdejo @ $14.99
The lakes were originally river beds that were gouged out over thousands and thousands of years by the slow movement of glaciers. The deep, skinny formations that were left behind created unique microclimates that are ideal for growing grapes. The lakes have a moderating effect on the surrounding land, preserving heat into the fall harvest season and cold in the spring, which holds back bud growth until after harmful frosts have passed.
This fall we made two separate visits to explore the region and taste some of the excellent wines that are being produced there. What we found was a wine country unlike any other, filled with small, fiercely independent but community-oriented wineries, as well as race-car enthusiasts, Amish produce stands, fish shacks and four-star restaurants.
Although we enjoyed several reds, particularly those made from Cabernet Franc and Lemberger, the real stars were the food-friendly whites, especially those made from German varietals like Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The best showed a fantastic balance between floral aromatics, depth of fruit and crisp acidity that should make them a hit at the dinner table. Whether it be a spicy stir fry or a classic holiday turkey dinner, these wines are perfect for those looking for something substantial and refreshing.
Atwater Estates
Started in 1999 by entrepreneur Ted Marks, Atwater Estates is a boutique winery that produces around 8500 cases a year. It is located on the south-east shore of Seneca Lake, in the heart of the so-called Banana Belt, a microclimate that has the warmest temperatures in the region. The vineyards have western exposure, and stretch down a gentle slope from Route 414 to the lakeshore.
We met Ted at the tasting room, an inviting and comfortable space with a drop-dead gorgeous view of the lake. That day had seen some heavy thunder showers, but by the time we arrived at Atwater, the sun was shining brightly and the vineyards were showing their best. Ted led us through a tasting of his full line of whites and reds as well as sparkling and dessert wines. The time passed effortlessly as he told us the story of the winery, talked about his winemaking philosophy and taught us a lot about what makes the Finger Lakes such a unique place. Enjoying these top-notch wines with Ted and his friendly staff, we clearly understood why Atwater sells most of its wines right out of the tasting room.
AtwaterEstate 2010 Dry Riesling $17.99
This is a wine of classic Finger Lakes character and value: the nose is herbal with fennel and lavender aromas lifting classic lime and subtle peach character, and the palate is lively, driven by intense lime flavors with peach and a little pear too. Soft and fruity when it first hits your palate, the wine gains focus through the midpalate and shows good length on the finish.
AtwaterEstate 2010 Gewurztraminer $18.99
Produced from twenty-year old vines, this Gewurztraminer is done in a dry style that is both refreshing and complex. Aromas of tangerine, lemon and peach are joined by notes of herbs and a touch of spice. It is rich on the palate, with excellent fruit weight that is balanced by very crisp acidity that lingers into a smooth finish.
AtwaterEstate NV Bubble Riesling $14.99
Atwater Bubble is redolent of peach, apricot and lemon with a touch of sweetness that is mouth-pleasing without being cloying. We imagine it will be the perfect aperitif for the holidays, and a mainstay at brunches throughout the winter.
Hermann J Wiemer Vineyard
The winery is located on the original plot of land where Hermann first planted vines in 1976. A restored 90-year old barn houses the winemaking facilities along with the winery's offices, shop and tasting room. If the weather is nice you can taste wine out on the patio but it's better to stay inside where you can taste at a long bar right next to the towering stainless steel tanks and watch the operation in action.
We were lucky enough to spend a few minutes with Fred during a brief downtime between emptying tanks, bottling and preparing for harvest. His winemaking philosophy is non-interventionist, based on the integrity of the fruit and respect for the land, evidenced by the traditional practices exhibited both in the field and in the tank. For example, Fred is acutely aware of the use of sulfur on the grapes and explained how his spray program was employed to limit sulfites in the finished product. It takes only a few sips to see that this pioneer of Finger Lakes winemaking will be at the front of the pack for years to come.
Wiemer 2007 Field Cuvee $13.99
An earthy blend of Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the Field Cuvee is a medium-bodied red with exceptional balance that will appeal to many different tastes.
Wiemer 2009 Frost Cuvee $11.99
The Frost Cuvee is a special blend, designed each year to reflect the qualities and outcomes of the particular growing season. Primarily Riesling and Gewurztraminer with a little Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir blended in, the wine is refreshing yet complex; there are bright fruit and floral notes up front while light pear and a touch of spice grace the palate.
Wiemer 2010 Dry Riesling $16.99
Wiemer's signature wine, the Dry Riesling is a blend of fruit from all three vineyard sites. It offers hints of lime and orange blossom on the nose, a succulent palate of apricot and grapefruit, and trademark minerality that persists into a smooth finish.
Wiemer 2010 Chardonnay $16.99
This is a new-world white with old-world sensibilities. Aromatic notes of orange and peach are complemented by just a touch of oak on the nose. The fruit is medium-bodied but invigorating on the palate, balanced by fresh acidity that leads to a crisp, pleasing finish.
Ravines Wine Cellars
Spending time in the Finger Lakes, we started recognizing some common themes among the wineries we visited, most noticeably their independent spirit, their congenial demeanor and their understated, but unmistakable, ambition for excellence. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the tasting room at Ravines Wine Cellars. Founded in 2000 by Morton and Lisa Hallgren, the winery sits on the eastern shore of Keuka Lake. This location, while appearing somewhat isolated from other wineries on a map, is actually ideally suited for growing high-quality grapes. The vineyard, situated on a steep slope at the widest section of the lake, benefits from generous exposure, excellent drainage and moderate temperatures. Guided by Lisa's vision and Morton's traditional winemaking techniques, the winery has been a success since its first vintage.
After a leisurely drive through beautiful farmland dotted with produce stands and the odd horse-and-buggy, we arrived at Ravines late in the afternoon to find a bright and airy tasting room, decorated to evoke Morton's native Provence. In the cellar below sits the "Ravinous Kitchen," a humble but comfortable space dedicated to local artisanal food. We were happy to learn that Lisa was doing extra duty behind the tasting table, and while she must have been exhausted after a long, busy day of dealing with throngs of tourists, she generously made the time to take us through her wines, expertly pairing them with local cheeses and chocolates. The experience revealed the Finger Lakes at its best and suggested that with this level of quality and consistency, the region won't be a local secret for much longer.
Ravines 2010 Keuka Village White $11.99
This is a French-American hybrid blend (Cayuga White and Vignoles) that breaks down the boundary between traditional hybrid wines and vinifera wines. The nose shows great fruity intensity with aromas of melon, peach and mango. This is a very lively, fresh, fruity off-dry wine with just enough sweetness to balance the acidity.
Ravines 2010 Keuka Village Red $11.99
A blend of Cabernet Franc and Noiret, this red is bright and fruit-forward with peppery hints and soft tannins. Its bright acidity and earthy finish make it a fine pair with hearty soups, meats and cheeses.
Ravines 2010 Dry Riesling $14.99
Soft apple and mineral aromas are joined by a hint of petrol on the nose. Medium-bodied, it has crisp flavors of stone fruit and mineral that are supported by a potent streak of acidity. Its smooth, clean finish invites another sip.
Ravines 2008 Cabernet Franc $17.99
This Cabernet Franc is made in a classic fruit-forward style with ripe red currant and blackberry aromas. Pretty fruit flavors are complemented by notes of earth and spice in the midpalate, balanced by soft tannins and zippy acidity into a dry finish that ends with a touch of oak.