Thanksgiving: The Annual Food-and-Wine-Matchup Challenge

Yes, it's a challenge, the reasons for which I will get to shortly . . . and there are many different ways to rise to that challenge. You can (as Matthew and I did in composing our November samplers) start from the premise that Thanksgiving is the quintessential American holiday and choose all American wines to go with your holiday meal. It's just as likely in my house, however, that you'll find an "America as melting pot" stance, which opens the door for entries from all over the world. (By way of explanation: our dining room is rather small and the usual 12-14 at the table makes for a tight squeeze, so my husband the sommelier tends to throw a range of bottles on the table and let our guests take their pick.)

+/- Thanksgiving: The Annual Food-and-Wine-Matchup Challenge

But back to those two Thanksgiving samplers. Matthew's is all-American (and all red) while mine is a mix of red and white, all from New York State. I'll leave Matt to defend his choices; as for mine . . . perhaps I was partly inspired by having just celebrated October as "Uncork New York" month, but I think it's more my conclusion that the grapes New York seems to do best are among those well suited to match with the traditional array of Thanksgiving dishes. And that takes us back to the wine-pairing challenge inherent in the holiday meal.

First consider the bird. Is it white meat? Yes! Is it dark meat? Yes! Does it have a lot of flavor? In my book, no. All of this points first to a white wine that is a bit of a shape-shifter, a chameleon if you will, a white that won't overwhelm . . . in other words, an unoaked Chardonnay like the North Fork Project I picked. A joint venture between Macari Vineyards on Long Island's north fork and their New York distributor, Martin Scott, the wine is intended to showcase the characteristics of the terroir of the region, which it does most successfully. Chardonnay, incidentally, seems to fare equally well in all the major grape-growing regions of the state, Long Island, the Hudson Valley, the Finger Lakes, and now we have in the store our first example from the Niagara Escarpment along the shores of Lake Ontario, the Leonard Oakes, which I also recommend enthusiastically.

But what about those dark meat people at the table? They probably want a red, but not a heavy one, something brightly fruited with soft tannins and subtle flavors. Pinot Noir? Maybe. Merlot? Maybe. Cabernet Franc? Now there's a thought. Cabernet Sauvignon? By itself, too brawny. Zinfandel? We like its American associations, but often too "in your face." I find the perfect answer in a charming blend from the Hermann J. Wiemer winery up on the western shore of Seneca Lake: it is mostly equal parts Cab Franc and Pinot Noir, with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Lemberger (aka, Blaufrankisch, native to Germany) blended in.

A brief footnote here: attempting to make world-class wine is a relatively recent effort for New York State, and growers in the key regions are still somewhat in the process of figuring out what grows best where. Early efforts on Long Island's north fork focused on Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Pinot Noir; today Chardonnay reigns for white on the island as does Riesling in the Finger Lakes, most of the Pinot Noir vines on the north fork have long since been ripped out, and it is becoming increasingly clear that Cabernet Franc is our most successful red grape throughout.

We've taken care of the bird pretty well, but the real difficulty lies with those pesky side dishes (think cranberry sauce, think sweet potato casserole, think jalapeno/cornbread stuffing) that can be sweet and/or spicy and/or highly acidic. Now add to what's already on the table a chilled bottle of Riesling, one with a substantial bit of residual sugar to it, like the one I chose from Red Newt Cellars on the eastern side of Seneca, and you've struck the proper balance.

So there you have an explication of my New York sampler, and a little bit about New York wines as well. Happy Thanksgiving!

The Lazy Days of Summer

August is sultry, it's soporific, it makes you want to do . . . nothing. The cicadas arrive and with their incessant drone send you to the nearest hammock or deck chair or rocking chair for a few stolen hours of doing absolutely . . . nothing.

+/- The Lazy Days of Summer

The indolent spirit of August invades my kitchen and dining room as well. I avoid turning on the oven at all costs, and grilling, crisp salads, and seasonal fresh fruit for dessert become the order of the day. And my Sunday dinner guests are trained to head straight for the back yard, where eight fit comfortably at the picnic table, more with additional side tables, and the dining table remains in pristine condition.

And what about wine, you ask? Over the years I have known people who buy wine strictly on the basis of the thermometer reading; they happily drink red wine all winter long, regardless of what kind of food they're having, but as soon as the temperature hits the 70-degree mark they switch to whites . . . and stay with whites until the temperature starts going in the opposite direction. I don't recommend being that arbitrary; there is of course a tremendous variety and range in white (not only in terms of taste but of weight on the palate as well), but many of our classic summer foods — especially barbeque fare like steaks, chops, and ribs — cry out for a serious red.

If you do want to drink a serious red in the high heat of summer, fine, but here's a bit of advice: chill the wine down in the fridge for 10-15 minutes before bringing it out (unless, of course, you're dining in hermetically sealed air-conditioned comfort). But for those unair-conditioned dining situations, remember that the classic recommendation for red wine temperature is 68 degrees . . . and when you bring that bottle out into 90+-degree heat, you're verging on baking your precious bottle in the sun! There is a more than acceptable alternative, of course, the "indispensable "summer wine," a dry, crisp, lightly fruited rosé, a great bet for a successful food match (since many are "meaty" enough in style that they will stand up to some fairly flavorful, heavy-duty food) and superb at beating the heat.

We dealt with rosés at some length here earlier in the season, and Alex also had sound advice regarding grilling match-ups, including specific wines to try, so I'll take a pass on making any specific "beat the heat" recommendations other than to suggest you consider one or more of this month's samplers (you'll see that mine features "chillable" reds). Instead, I'll close with a repeat (for those of you who didn't see our August newsletter) of the story of how the "dog days of summer" got their name.

We owe the coinage (as we do so many things in our culture) to the ancient Greeks and Romans: they associated the hot weather with the star "Sirius," called the "dog star" because it is the brightest star in the constellation Canis Major ("Large Dog"). It is also the brightest star in the night sky, and in the summer it rises and sets with the sun (although over time the constellations have gradually drifted and are no longer in exactly the same place in the sky as they were in ancient Rome). No question this is invariably the warmest period of the season . . . but the heat has nothing to do with radiation from a faraway star but rather with the tilt of the earth. Whatever the cause, the cure is a crisp, bright white or rosé (or one of our chillable reds) to keep the heat and humidity at bay . . . and remember, September's just around the corner!

Keeping It Simple with Grillable Reds (and One Pink)

Summer is about keeping things simple. Ties are out, sandals are in. Forget roasts and braises, they've been replaced by salads and sandwiches and pastas. If you have a source of fresh, local produce nearby, consider yourself lucky. But if you have access to a grill, then consider yourself REALLY lucky, because it doesn't get any more simple and delicious than that. Here in Brooklyn Heights, having a barbecue is considered a luxury, because it means you've got at least a little bit of outdoor space, which is at a premium. But even if you live in a place where everyone has one, you'll notice that a barbecue grill is rarely ever taken for granted. Grilling is a part of our collective culture, a practice that holds universal appeal, no matter what you do or where you're from. The simplicity of the humble barbecue grill is truly a thing of beauty.

+/- Keeping It Simple with Grillable Reds (and One Pink)

When it comes to wine and grilling, simplicity is also the name of the game. By their very nature, the proteins, spices and flavorings commonly used for barbecue lead us towards straightforward, unfussy wines. However, this is not to say that your choice of wine is any less important than for any other meal. It just means that it's easier. As always, the key in pairing is to match the weight of the food to the weight of the wine. So let's look at some of the most common grillables and their perfect pairs.

Vegetables: 

Asparagus, onions, zucchini and bell peppers are just a few of the delicious vegetables that thrive on a grill. For vegetables alone, you're getting wonderful sweet caramelized flavors along with the smoke and char that the grilling imparts to the food. Forget light and bright, and go for bigger. A really full-bodied white wine is alright, but rosé is the better choice. A touch of fruitiness and a bit of roundness on the palate will complement the sweet and savory flavors of grilled vegetables perfectly.

Our Pick:
Opale de la Presqu'lle de Saint Tropez 2011 Provence Rosé $12.99
This is classic Provence in a bottle. It has light red berry and floral aromas on the nose, and round and crisp berry fruit on the palate. The crisp acidity and dry finish is a wonderful match for veggies.

Salmon/ Tuna: 

We already know that these fish are outliers when it comes to food pairings. Yes, you can drink red wine with fish, and tuna in particular thrives with lighter-styled reds like Pinot Noir. When combining with the smoke and spice rubs of a barbecue, you should adjust your choice of wine accordingly. Don't be afraid of slightly bolder styles of Pinot, particularly those from the new world that are done in more fruit-driven styles and may have a dose of new oak.

Our Pick:
Adelsheim 2009 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley $24.99
This is an elegantly textured Pinot Noir that spends about ten months in small French oak barrels. Its silky, polished tannins and just a hint of new oak should be a perfect match with either fish.

Chicken: 

The most important factor with grilled chicken is to identify your spice. While plain grilled chicken is delicious, you are more likely to find that it has been rubbed, marinated or slathered in barbecue sauce. The more intense the flavorings, the more you will want to amp up the flavors of the wine. With classic barbecue sauce in particular, the chicken is basically just a vessel for the zing of tomato, sugar and spice flavors. My pick is a modern-styled Sangiovese, but a lighter Zinfandel or Argentinian Malbec might not be out of the question.

Our Pick:
Miner 2009 Gibson Ranch Sangiovese $25.99
This is lush, fruit-driven Sangiovese from an organically-farmed vineyard near the Mendocino Coast. Its dark berry fruit and round, soft tannins will not be overpowered by even the most spicy of sauces.

Pork: 

As a steak or a chop, pork is often one of the most under-appreciated meats on the grill. Its salty and sweet character lends itself well to medium-to-full-bodied wines like Riojas, Montepulcianos and Barberas. However, as the base for most sausages, pork is truly a fan favorite. Whether ground in with fennel seeds, parsley, paprika or cayenne, pork sausages are going to call for a wine that is fruit-driven and spicy. Think Grenache/Garnacha, Tempranillo and other reds from Spain.
Our Pick:
Finca Sandoval 2009 "Signo" Bobal $19.99
From Manchuela, southeast of Madrid, this red features the indigenous grape Bobal, blended with a splash of Syrah. The wine is on the lighter -side of full-bodied, featuring ripe, dark berry fruit and a healthy dose of new oak. It is built for meat.

Beef:

A beef steak is the most classic of all grilled meats, and in the United State, Cabernet Sauvignon is the most popular choice of wine to accompany it. That being said, beef can vary wildly in its fat content depending on what cut it used, and as we've seen, a myriad of spices can drastically change the flavor profile of your pairing. While a Cabernet might be a perfectly good match, don't overlook a bold red from Tuscany or a Syrah-based wine from the Rhone. Be wary of particularly fruit-driven wines, especially since beef will typically not feature a sweet flavor profile.
Our Pick:
Beckmen 10 Cabernet Sauvignon $19.99
This is bright, well balanced, and varietally expressive Cabernet from the Santa Ynez valley.  Its big fruit entry is balanced in the middle by notes of black olives, spice and toast. Though big and bold, it is not overdone, and should work with everything from burgers to ribeye.

Lamb:

Despite its many applications in some of the most humble recipes throughout Europe, the Middle East and Asia, lamb has become a meat that we associate with special occasions. Whether cut into delicate chops, or slowly and carefully cooked on a spit, the savory, tangy and juicy flavors of well-prepared lamb are hard to beat. Its complex flavor profile is most commonly associated with Syrah, a grape that classically produces wine full of spicy, leathery and earthy notes. Some of the best are found in areas of the Northern Rhone, such as the famous Cotes-Rotie where Syrah is traditionally blended with a small amount of Viognier. Other excellent choices for lamb include Nebbiolo-based wines of Piedmont, Primitivo from Salento, and the full, earthy blends from Corbieres. I would be remiss if I didn't suggest exploring some of the excellent wines from countries like Greece and Lebanon, where grilled lamb is a staple.
Our Pick:
Mas D'Agalis 2007 Navis $23.99
This is an opulent and earthy blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from the Languedoc. Ageing for 18 months in oak casks lends this blend a rich, ripe rusticity that is a slam dunk with grilled lamb of any variety.

Something for Everyone . . . a Rosé Tonight!

As one of the more senior (in more ways than one!) members of the Heights Chateau staff, I can well remember a time when we had to drag folk, virtually kicking and screaming, in the direction of our rosé selection. Happily, that is no longer the case, as soundly proven by the current refrain, "Where are your rosés?"

+/- Something for Everyone . . . a Rosé Tonight!

Why that early reluctance? I suspect it was residual fallout from early exposure to the likes of Lancers and Mateus, or even the color association with white Zinfandel, which left many with the assumption that rosé is, by definition, sweet. Even today I find the occasional customer who, standing in front of our wall of pink, will ask "which of these are sweet?" to which, I can happily reply, "none." (True, some are more fruity than others, but that's another issue entirely.)

There are many aspects of rosé we could celebrate, but I'll focus on three: its unpretentiousness, its affordability, and its diversity/versatility.

Rosé doesn't expect to be taken seriously, which is a great part of its charm and its suitability for warm weather. Can you picture a bunch of stuffed-shirt wine tasters sniffing and swirling Riedel glasses full of rosé? Nor can I. Rosé doesn't need to be analyzed, parsed, thought about, dissected, it just needs to be enjoyed. And, with all due deference to the tastemakers of the Hamptons, it should be sufficiently inexpensive as to make opening a bottle relatively guilt-free. Remember, rosé is the winemaker's cash cow: grapes picked and vinified in the fall of one year are converted into bottled wine released into the market in a mere six months' time, the following spring. No need for costly oak barrels, no need to see one's available assets tied up in bottles ageing in the cellar for months or even years. And here's another plus for the winemaker: many of the world's most popular rosés are blends of two, three, or more grapes, so if a winemaker has not enough Syrah, or Grenache, or Cabernet, or whatever to make on its own, the intelligent solution to the problem is to make a rosé. All this means that making rosé is, relatively speaking, an inexpensive process, and you should benefit accordingly.

How to make a rosé? Well, let's start with how not to make one. I recall many years ago reading a column in a travel magazine written by the late great restaurateur/raconteur George Lang. Lang told how, on a recent airplane flight, the stewardess asked him for his drinks order and, when he indicated wine, asked him "red, white, or rosé?" Lang, thoroughly mystified because he saw no rosé on her cart, rose to the bait and ordered it . . . at which point she opened a carafe of red and one of white and poured them together. No, that's not how it's done. To understand how rosé is made you need to know only two things: 1) the juice of all grapes, red or white, is white, and 2) the color of a wine, whether red, white, or rosé, comes from the pigment in the skin of the grape. The color of a particular rosé reflects not just the depth of color of the grape(s) used to make the wine but also the length of time the juice is left in contact with the skins, anywhere from one or two hours to several. (I used to maintain that a rosé had to be made from red grapes, and to my amazement, we recently took on a rosé made from Pinot Grigio; apparently there is enough pigment in the skin of this "gray" Pinot to make this possible.) Not only does the wine take its color from the skin but the depth and intensity of its character as well: the lighter the color, the more delicate and ephemeral the wine, while the deeper, darker versions could come close to passing as reds.

Which brings me to the true glory of rosé, namely its diversity and versatility. On a recent Saturday Matthew asked me if I had tried a particular rosé; instead of answering him directly I pointed to a particular wine on the shelf and said that my preference was for rosés that had at least that much color to them and went up the color scale from there, to which Matthew replied that his choice was from that point on the color scale on down. We laughed and said that between us we had the entire spectrum covered, but in fact there is a place for both styles: to put it a bit simplistically, the wines at the lighter end of the color spectrum are natural substitutes for whites, while the ones at the darker end, even well chilled, can stand in for a true red.

In contemplating this post, I thought it might be useful to replicate that color spectrum, from lightest to darkest; you may find it a useful guide to our range of selections. And one final note: if over the course of the season you find a particular rosé you fancy, consider making a commitment to it: most importers/distributors still think of rosé as a seasonal commodity and will take on from their producers only as much wine as they think they can sell between Memorial Day and Labor Day, so when a particular wine is gone, it's gone until the next vintage.

The Range of Our Rosés

Commanderie de la Bargemone 11 Rosé . . . Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet, Carignan, and Ugni Blanc from Provence @ $14.99
Bucklin 11 Old Hill Ranch Rosé . . . Grenache, Syrah, Zinfandel, Carignan and Mourvèdre from Sonoma @ $22.99
Domaine de la Solitude 11 CdR Rosé . . . 100% Cinsault from the Rhône @ $13.99
Donkey & Goat 11 Rosé . . . 100% Grenache from Mendocino @ $22.99
Lopez de Heredia 00 Rosé Tondonia . . . mostly Grenache with a little Tempranillo and Viura blended in @ $24.99
Mattebella 10 Rosé . . . Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon from Long Island's North Fork @ $13.99
Montenidoli 11 Rosato . . . 100% Canaiuolo from Tuscany @ $19.99
L'Opale de la Presqu'Ile de St. Tropez 11 Rosé . . . Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan from Provence @ $12.99
Paumanok 11 Dry Rosé . . . Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Long Island's North Fork @ $16.99
La Rame 11 Rosé . . . primarily Cab and Merlot from Bordeaux @ $12.99
Saint Aix 10 Aix en Provence . . . Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Counoise from Provence @ $15.99
Sainte Lucie 11 MiP Rosé . . . Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah from Provence @ $14.99
Sinskey 2011 Vin Gris . . . 100% Pinot Noir from Sonoma @ $32.99
Tour du Bon 11 Bandol Rosé . . . Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Clairette from Provence @ $22.99
Aphillantes 11 CdR Rosé . . . mostly Cinsault, with Grenache, Counoise and a touch of Mourvèdre from the Rhône @ $12.99
Bonny Doon 11 Vin Gris de Cigare . . . Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Cinsault from Monterey @ $15.99
Brun 11 Rosé d'Folie Beaujolais . . . 100% Gamay from the Beaujolais @ $16.99
Carrel 11 Rosé de Savoie . . . a blend of Gamay and Mondeuse from the Savoy region of France @ $11.99
Charles & Charles 11 Rosé . . . 100% Syrah from Washington @ $10.99
Chateau d'Angles 11 Rosé La Clape . . . Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache from the Languedoc @ $14.99
Clapière 11 Rosé . . . Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah from Provence @ $14.99
Dalton 10 Rosé . . . 100% Cabernet from Israel @ $16.99
Delecheneau 11 Tournage Riant Rosé . . . Malbec, Gamay, and Grolleau from the Touraine @ $17.99
Edmunds St John 11 Bone Jolly . . . 100% Gamay Noir from California's El Dorado County @ $19.99
Esprit Sud 11 Rosé . . . Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet from Provence @ $14.99
Gobelsburg 11 Rosé . . . St. Laurent and Zweigelt from Austria @ $16.99
Le Grand Rouvière 11 Rosé . . . Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault from Provence @ $11.99
Grange Tiphaine 2011 Rosa, Rose, Rosam . . . a "Methode Ancestrale" sparkler made from Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Gamay and Grolleau @ $19.99
Manarine 11 CdR Rosé . . . 100% Grenache from the Rhône @ $11.99
Markowitsch 11 Rosé . . . an 80/20 blend of Blaufrankisch and Cabernet from Austria @ $13.99
Mas de Cadenet 11 Sainte Victoire Rosé…Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah from Provence @ $16.99
Ollieux Romanis 11 Corbières Rosé . . . Carignan, Syrah and Grenache from the Languedoc @ $15.99
Ostatu 11 Rosado . . . Tempranillo, Grenache and Viura from Rioja @ $16.99
Plouzeau 2011 Chinon . . . 100% Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley @ $13.99
Le Poisson 10 Gris . . . Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre from Tunisia @ $11.99
Rimbert 2011 Petit Cochon Bronzé . . . a blend of Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache from the Languedoc @ $12.99
La Selve 11 Maguelonne Rosé . . . Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault from the Rhône @ $10.99
Source de Vignelaure 11 Rosé . . . Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet from Provence @ $14.99
Xavier Flouret 11 Nationale 7 Rosé . . . Grenache, Cinsault and Tiburon from Provence @ $14.99
Borsao 11 Rosé . . . 100% Grenache from Campo de Borja @ $7.99
Bouké 10 Rosé Dry . . . Cabernet and Merlot from Long Island's North Fork @ $13.99
Chateau Puligny-Montrachet 11 Rosé . . . 100% Pinot Noir from Burgundy @ $19.99
Chemin de Bassac "Isa" Rosé...Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre and Syrah from the Languedoc @ $15.99
Gourgazaud 11 Le P'tit Grain Rosé . . . 100% Syrah from the Languedoc @ $12.99
Hitching Post 11 Pinks . . . Pinot Noir and Valdiguié from California's Central Coast @ $17.99
Houchart 11 Côtes de Provence . . . Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet from Provence @ $11.99
Lamargue 11 Rosé Les Grandes Cabanes . . . 100% Syrah from the Rhône @ $9.99
Leone de Castris 2011 Salento "Five Roses" . . . Negroamaro and Black Malvasia from Puglia @ $15.99
Oupia 11 Rosé . . . Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault from the Minervois @ $15.99
Saintsbury 11 Vincent Vin Gris . . . 100% Pinot Noir from Carneros @ $17.99
Schola Sarmenti 2011 Rosato . . . 100% Negroamaro from Puglia @ $15.99
Uvaggio 09 Rosato . . . Primitivo, Barbera and Vermentino from Lodi @ $12.99
Casal Garcia 11 Rosé . . . Vinhaõ, Azal, and Borracal from the Vinho Verde region of Portugal @ $8.99
La Kiuva NV Rosé de Vallée . . . Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir from the Valle d'Aosta in northwestern Italy @ $14.99
Mulderbosch 11 Rosé . . . 100% Cabernet from South Africa @ $10.99
Musar 09 Jeune Rosé . . . 100% Cinsault from Lebanon @ $15.99
Shinn Estate 11 Rosé . . . 100% Merlot from Long Island's North Fork @ $14.99
Chateau Penin 2011 Rosé . . . Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from Bordeaux @ $12.99
Chateau Penin 2011 Clairet . . . 100% Merlot from Bordeaux @ $12.99
Cortijo III 11 Rosado . . . Tempranillo and Grenache from Rioja @ $10.99
Crios 2011 Rosado . . . . 100% Malbec from Argentina @ $10.99
Penamonte 11 Rosado . . . 100% Grenache from Navarre @ $8.99
ZaZa 11 Rosado . . . 100% Grenache from the Campo de Borja @ $10.99

And for those of you who may be wondering…the wine that represents the meeting ground between Matthew's take on rosés and mine is the one in bold-face type on the list. And for those of you who may be wondering…the wine that represents the meeting ground between Matthew's take on rosés and mine is the one in bold-face type on the list.

Click here to see an exhaustive list of all our Rosés!