Monday, July 2, 2012

Keeping It Simple with Grillable Reds (and One Pink)


Summer is about keeping things simple. Ties are out, sandals are in. Forget roasts and braises, they've been replaced by salads and sandwiches and pastas. If you have a source of fresh, local produce nearby, consider yourself lucky. But if you have access to a grill, then consider yourself REALLY lucky, because it doesn't get any more simple and delicious than that. Here in Brooklyn Heights, having a barbecue is considered a luxury, because it means you've got at least a little bit of outdoor space, which is at a premium. But even if you live in a place where everyone has one, you'll notice that a barbecue grill is rarely ever taken for granted. Grilling is a part of our collective culture, a practice that holds universal appeal, no matter what you do or where you're from. The simplicity of the humble barbecue grill is truly a thing of beauty.

+/- Keeping It Simple with Grillable Reds (and One Pink)

When it comes to wine and grilling, simplicity is also the name of the game. By their very nature, the proteins, spices and flavorings commonly used for barbecue lead us towards straightforward, unfussy wines. However, this is not to say that your choice of wine is any less important than for any other meal. It just means that it's easier. As always, the key in pairing is to match the weight of the food to the weight of the wine. So let's look at some of the most common grillables and their perfect pairs.

Vegetables: 

Asparagus, onions, zucchini and bell peppers are just a few of the delicious vegetables that thrive on a grill. For vegetables alone, you're getting wonderful sweet caramelized flavors along with the smoke and char that the grilling imparts to the food. Forget light and bright, and go for bigger. A really full-bodied white wine is alright, but rosé is the better choice. A touch of fruitiness and a bit of roundness on the palate will complement the sweet and savory flavors of grilled vegetables perfectly.

Our Pick:
Opale de la Presqu'lle de Saint Tropez 2011 Provence Rosé $12.99
This is classic Provence in a bottle. It has light red berry and floral aromas on the nose, and round and crisp berry fruit on the palate. The crisp acidity and dry finish is a wonderful match for veggies.

Salmon/ Tuna: 

We already know that these fish are outliers when it comes to food pairings. Yes, you can drink red wine with fish, and tuna in particular thrives with lighter-styled reds like Pinot Noir. When combining with the smoke and spice rubs of a barbecue, you should adjust your choice of wine accordingly. Don't be afraid of slightly bolder styles of Pinot, particularly those from the new world that are done in more fruit-driven styles and may have a dose of new oak.

Our Pick:
Adelsheim 2009 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley $24.99
This is an elegantly textured Pinot Noir that spends about ten months in small French oak barrels. Its silky, polished tannins and just a hint of new oak should be a perfect match with either fish.

Chicken: 

The most important factor with grilled chicken is to identify your spice. While plain grilled chicken is delicious, you are more likely to find that it has been rubbed, marinated or slathered in barbecue sauce. The more intense the flavorings, the more you will want to amp up the flavors of the wine. With classic barbecue sauce in particular, the chicken is basically just a vessel for the zing of tomato, sugar and spice flavors. My pick is a modern-styled Sangiovese, but a lighter Zinfandel or Argentinian Malbec might not be out of the question.

Our Pick:
Miner 2009 Gibson Ranch Sangiovese $25.99
This is lush, fruit-driven Sangiovese from an organically-farmed vineyard near the Mendocino Coast. Its dark berry fruit and round, soft tannins will not be overpowered by even the most spicy of sauces.

Pork: 

As a steak or a chop, pork is often one of the most under-appreciated meats on the grill. Its salty and sweet character lends itself well to medium-to-full-bodied wines like Riojas, Montepulcianos and Barberas. However, as the base for most sausages, pork is truly a fan favorite. Whether ground in with fennel seeds, parsley, paprika or cayenne, pork sausages are going to call for a wine that is fruit-driven and spicy. Think Grenache/Garnacha, Tempranillo and other reds from Spain.
Our Pick:
Finca Sandoval 2009 "Signo" Bobal $19.99
From Manchuela, southeast of Madrid, this red features the indigenous grape Bobal, blended with a splash of Syrah. The wine is on the lighter -side of full-bodied, featuring ripe, dark berry fruit and a healthy dose of new oak. It is built for meat.

Beef:

A beef steak is the most classic of all grilled meats, and in the United State, Cabernet Sauvignon is the most popular choice of wine to accompany it. That being said, beef can vary wildly in its fat content depending on what cut it used, and as we've seen, a myriad of spices can drastically change the flavor profile of your pairing. While a Cabernet might be a perfectly good match, don't overlook a bold red from Tuscany or a Syrah-based wine from the Rhone. Be wary of particularly fruit-driven wines, especially since beef will typically not feature a sweet flavor profile.
Our Pick:
Beckmen 10 Cabernet Sauvignon $19.99
This is bright, well balanced, and varietally expressive Cabernet from the Santa Ynez valley.  Its big fruit entry is balanced in the middle by notes of black olives, spice and toast. Though big and bold, it is not overdone, and should work with everything from burgers to ribeye.

Lamb:

Despite its many applications in some of the most humble recipes throughout Europe, the Middle East and Asia, lamb has become a meat that we associate with special occasions. Whether cut into delicate chops, or slowly and carefully cooked on a spit, the savory, tangy and juicy flavors of well-prepared lamb are hard to beat. Its complex flavor profile is most commonly associated with Syrah, a grape that classically produces wine full of spicy, leathery and earthy notes. Some of the best are found in areas of the Northern Rhone, such as the famous Cotes-Rotie where Syrah is traditionally blended with a small amount of Viognier. Other excellent choices for lamb include Nebbiolo-based wines of Piedmont, Primitivo from Salento, and the full, earthy blends from Corbieres. I would be remiss if I didn't suggest exploring some of the excellent wines from countries like Greece and Lebanon, where grilled lamb is a staple.
Our Pick:
Mas D'Agalis 2007 Navis $23.99
This is an opulent and earthy blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from the Languedoc. Ageing for 18 months in oak casks lends this blend a rich, ripe rusticity that is a slam dunk with grilled lamb of any variety.

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