Friday, July 15, 2011

Mediterranean Wines for a Brooklyn Summer by Alex


Though many out-of-town guests might disagree, summer is the best time of year here in Brooklyn. When the temperatures jump, there are a myriad of activities available on any given night of the week.  Whether it be outdoor dining, movies in the park, free concerts, backyard grilling, rooftop parties or just sitting on the front stoop, seemingly endless opportunities abound, far outpacing the time we actually have available.

+/- Mediterranean Wines for a Brooklyn Summer

And everywhere we go, we are eating. Here at Heights Chateau we are blessed to be at the epicenter of several amazing food trends and traditions. We sit on Atlantic Avenue, the former home to the largest Syrian and Lebanese commercial corridor on the East Coast. Just south of us lies Carrol Gardens, a long standing Italian-American neighborhood with a mix of traditional and innovative restaurants. And in between there are Smith and Court Streets, the parallel thoroughfares that host several eateries that have put Brooklyn on the locavore foodie map.

With heat, humidity and food in mind, here are some wines that are perfect for a simmering Brooklyn summer.

Domaine Porto Carras 2009 Assyrtiko $13.99

At a recent Middle Eastern dinner, this wine was a revelation. Domaine Porto Carras is situated on the slopes of Mount Meliton in Sithonia, Halkidiki where chalky soil and ocean breezes combine to create excellent growing conditions. Here they do wonders with Assyrtiko. Native to the island of Santorini, the grape is known for producing full-bodied and structured white wines with crisp acidity and fresh mineral notes. This version is medium-bodied with ample citrus fruit and complex mineral flavors that are balanced by vibrant acidity. It lends itself to seafood and shellfish, but will also work great with salads, fried appetizers, grilled chicken and lighter pastas. As for my recent dinner, this wine was a standout paired with Ouzi, the spicy chicken and rice pie that is the national dish of Jordan. Amazing.

Cusumano 2010 Insolia $9.99

Insolia is a somewhat under-the-radar Italian grape that is grown mostly in western Sicily and parts of Tuscany. Best known as a blending grape in Marsala, Insolia is receiving new attention in single-varietal wines, and it's easy to see why. Cusumano's version, made from grapes grown in the hills south of Palermo, is full of rich and creamy fruit that is balanced by a touch of nuttiness and lip-smacking acidity. It's perfectly priced for a casual weekday dinner, whether it be grilled fish, chicken kebabs or classic spicy pastas. However, my favorite pairing is with a piping hot Neopolitan pizza from one of our many amazing local Italian restaurants. The plumpness of the wine is perfect with the fresh Mozzarella and sparsely administered tangy tomato sauce.


La Soraia  2010 Gavi di Gavi $15.99

Hailing from Piedmont near the border with Liguria, Gavi is a white that gets a bit of a bad rap. The wine, made from the Cortese grape, is one of the greatest whites in Italy, yet after a period of intense popularity that led to overproduction and a decline in overall quality, it fell out of favor. This trend is finally reversing itself thanks in part to the establishment of the DOCG in 1998 and the reemergence of small family estates that have remained committed to traditional winemaking practices. That's good news for us, as a steady stream of high-quality, food-friendly Gavi is available once again.

La Soraia is one of the oldest producers of Gavi di Gavi DOCG. Made from estate-grown grapes, their wines are crafted according to simple principles of non-intrusive, low-impact viticulture. Their Gavi is both lush and delicate, offering light and elegant floral aromas and complex flavors of white flowers, almonds and a balanced streak of mineral. Like most Gavis, this wine is incredibly versatile with food, its bright acidity and mineral finish making it a hit with classic Mediterranean flavors. Try it with Chicken Paillard, Italian fish stew or my personal favorite, freshly-made deep-fried falafel balls. 

Can Feixes 2010 Blanc Seleccio $14.99
This is light, young and quaffable white wine at its best. Can Feixes is located high in the eastern mountains of Penedes, the only truly Mediterranean wine-growing region of Spain. It is a blend of the obscure and familiar: 40% Parellada, 30% Macabeo, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Malvaisía de Sitges. The wine is light and easy-drinking, yet aromatic, featuring aromas and subtle flavors of melon, mineral and citrus zest. Its uncomplicated nature makes it perfect as an aperitif but its intense focus from beginning to end also lends itself to endless food pairing possibilities. My ideal match would be a fresh yet substantial salad, like pickled watermelon with feta cheese, arugula and mint.

Need a pairing suggestion for your summer feast? Stop by the shop or drop us a line. We'd be more than happy to help!

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Why drink anything else? | Tara on Pink Wine


Before I started at Heights Chateau, I worked in a wine store/wine bar where we had maybe 15 rosés, tops. Since coming to Heights Chateau in 2007, I've worked three summers where our PINK section consistently grows, now hovering somewhere around 75-80 producers. I think it's safe to say that the wines that exist somewhere between red and white have a special place in Matthew's heart and now mine. Even Dominique is under the influence of PINK, buying a three-liter BOX of rosé from Buzet.

+/- Why drink anything else? Tara on Pink Wine

(2010 Vinity Buzet Rose 3L Box $32.99) Drinking rosé year round is not unheard of, especially at Heights Chateau where we recommend it for food pairings year round, but summertime had another aspect which makes rosé even more palatable: hot weather.

While most of our customers LOVE a good rosé, I think there are still some misconceptions about wine that is neither white or red. The most tragic of these are:

1) All pink wine is sweet. -> False. We do stock a few sweeties, but virtually all of the roses in the store are dry. If dry is key, Provence or Loire is where it's at. If you want to go fairly fruity, try a rosé from Anjou or Tavel. If you want it super sweet, you might just head for the White Zinfandel and call it a day.

2) Rosé is made by adding red wine to white wine. -> False. Most producers choose to macerate the skins with the juice for a short time after crushing to impart color and flavor. And therein lies a major clue to the character of the wine: generally speaking, the deeper the color the more intensely fruity the wine will be.

3) Rosé doesn't go with food. ->False. For me, rosé paired with summer food is ideal, as it offers the best of both red and white wines.

Whether sparkly, organic or just plain good, we have one of best rosé selections (if I do say so myself) in Brooklyn for every palate, meal and/or budget. Stop by and find a new favorite!

Tara's TOP TEN favorites for this summer:

1) Chemin de Bassac 2010 Isa Rosé $13.99 (France)
Berry and cherry flavors with a medium body, impressive balance, a smooth mouth feel, and a persistent crisp and dry finish.Organic.

2) Chateau d'Oupia 2010 Minervois Rosé $13.99 (France)
This charming organic rosé is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Mourvèdre. Tangy strawberry flavors are complemented by citrus, spice and a hint of mineral.Organic.

3) Raffault 2010 Chinon Rosé $17.99 (France)
100% Cabernet Franc, with bright and lively strawberry fruit and a long, succulent finish.Natural.

4) Bio Vio 2010 Rossese di Albenga $20.99 (Italy)
The classic red wine of Liguria, Rossese is best served with first courses, red meat and seasoned cheeses. Light bodied and well rounded, with flavors of cherries, strawberries and black currants with good finesse and complexity, it is best consumed fresh and young, within two years of the harvest.Organic.

5) Croix du Prieur 2010 Provence Rosé $15.99 (France)
La Croix du Prieur is a certified organic winery located in the shadows of Mount Sainte Victoire. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, and Syrah, the wine is crisp and tangy with berry and citrus flavors, a Domaine Ott "lookalike" at a fraction of the price.Organic.

6) Lopez de Heredia 2000 Rosado Tondonia $24.99 (Spain)
Lopez de Heredia is noted for extensively aging their wines, releasing them to the market only when they believe they are fully matured; their reds generally remain in the winery's cellars for upwards of 10-20 years. In typical fashion for them, their rosé spends three years in oak, followed by additional bottle aging. Mostly Grenache, with a little Tempranillo and Viura blended in, the wine shows aromas of orange zest, peach, and a slightly silky nuttiness.Organic.

7) La Selve 2010 L'Audacieuse Rosé $17.99 (France)
Chateau La Selve is a dynamic new (started only in 2002)  producer in the Ardèche. "L'Audacieuse" is their top rosé cuvée, a blend primarily of Grenache and Syrah with some Cinsault and Viognier added in. The wine shows unusual depth and complexity for a rosé; fresh and lively, it has abundant mineral notes, a beautifully balanced acidic structure and elegant notes of fresh raspberry. Biodynamic.
(P.S. Try their entry level pink too!)


8) Lauverjat 2010 Sancerre Rosé $18.99 (France)
Made by Katherine and Christian Lauverjat entirely from estate-grown fruit, this 100% Pinot Noir rosé is light and lively, very dry, with subtle fruit and a touch of minerality. Deliciously complex, it has vibrant aromas of fresh flowers and red berries that explode out of the glass. This extremely food friendly wine is also a perfect warm-weather aperitif.Sustainable.

9) Sainte Lucie 2010 "MiP" Rose $14.99 (France)
The name of this wine says it all: "Made In Provence". It is a typical lighter-style rose perfect for parties, afternoons and gatherings throughout the hot season. It features light fruitiness, balanced acidity and a subtle body. Enjoy alongside anything or nothing as a refreshing summer treat!

10) Charles & Charles 2010 Rose $10.99 (USA)
Charles Bieler of Three Thieves/Rebel Wine/Bieler Père et Fils and Charles Smith of K Vintners/Magnificent Wine/Charles Smith Wines have teamed up on a delicious rosé offering. Their collaboration — aptly named "Charles and Charles" — has yielded a single-vineyard dry rosé made from 100% Syrah from the Wahluke Slope of Washington State. The nose is huge, all strawberry shortcake and rose petals, and the flavor is not sweet but tart, crisp, refreshing. Strawberry dominates, then some rounder smoother melon kicks in, and there is a hint of lime in the finish. Good acidity and structure make for a well constructed wine.