Looking on a map, you might find it easy to miss the Finger Lakes. They don't look much like lakes at all, more like scratches in the topography left upon the landscape by some mythical deity. As a result, people are often surprised to learn that this unassuming area, located in the central-west New York just below Lake Ontario, produces some of the best wines in the United States.
+/- Falling For The Finger Lakes
The lakes were originally river beds that were gouged out over thousands and thousands of years by the slow movement of glaciers. The deep, skinny formations that were left behind created unique microclimates that are ideal for growing grapes. The lakes have a moderating effect on the surrounding land, preserving heat into the fall harvest season and cold in the spring, which holds back bud growth until after harmful frosts have passed.
This fall we made two separate visits to explore the region and taste some of the excellent wines that are being produced there. What we found was a wine country unlike any other, filled with small, fiercely independent but community-oriented wineries, as well as race-car enthusiasts, Amish produce stands, fish shacks and four-star restaurants.
Although we enjoyed several reds, particularly those made from Cabernet Franc and Lemberger, the real stars were the food-friendly whites, especially those made from German varietals like Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The best showed a fantastic balance between floral aromatics, depth of fruit and crisp acidity that should make them a hit at the dinner table. Whether it be a spicy stir fry or a classic holiday turkey dinner, these wines are perfect for those looking for something substantial and refreshing.
Atwater Estates
Started in 1999 by entrepreneur Ted Marks, Atwater Estates is a boutique winery that produces around 8500 cases a year. It is located on the south-east shore of Seneca Lake, in the heart of the so-called Banana Belt, a microclimate that has the warmest temperatures in the region. The vineyards have western exposure, and stretch down a gentle slope from Route 414 to the lakeshore.
We met Ted at the tasting room, an inviting and comfortable space with a drop-dead gorgeous view of the lake. That day had seen some heavy thunder showers, but by the time we arrived at Atwater, the sun was shining brightly and the vineyards were showing their best. Ted led us through a tasting of his full line of whites and reds as well as sparkling and dessert wines. The time passed effortlessly as he told us the story of the winery, talked about his winemaking philosophy and taught us a lot about what makes the Finger Lakes such a unique place. Enjoying these top-notch wines with Ted and his friendly staff, we clearly understood why Atwater sells most of its wines right out of the tasting room.
AtwaterEstate 2010 Dry Riesling $17.99
This is a wine of classic Finger Lakes character and value: the nose is herbal with fennel and lavender aromas lifting classic lime and subtle peach character, and the palate is lively, driven by intense lime flavors with peach and a little pear too. Soft and fruity when it first hits your palate, the wine gains focus through the midpalate and shows good length on the finish.
AtwaterEstate 2010 Gewurztraminer $18.99
Produced from twenty-year old vines, this Gewurztraminer is done in a dry style that is both refreshing and complex. Aromas of tangerine, lemon and peach are joined by notes of herbs and a touch of spice. It is rich on the palate, with excellent fruit weight that is balanced by very crisp acidity that lingers into a smooth finish.
AtwaterEstate NV Bubble Riesling $14.99
Atwater Bubble is redolent of peach, apricot and lemon with a touch of sweetness that is mouth-pleasing without being cloying. We imagine it will be the perfect aperitif for the holidays, and a mainstay at brunches throughout the winter.
Hermann J Wiemer Vineyard
The winery is located on the original plot of land where Hermann first planted vines in 1976. A restored 90-year old barn houses the winemaking facilities along with the winery's offices, shop and tasting room. If the weather is nice you can taste wine out on the patio but it's better to stay inside where you can taste at a long bar right next to the towering stainless steel tanks and watch the operation in action.
We were lucky enough to spend a few minutes with Fred during a brief downtime between emptying tanks, bottling and preparing for harvest. His winemaking philosophy is non-interventionist, based on the integrity of the fruit and respect for the land, evidenced by the traditional practices exhibited both in the field and in the tank. For example, Fred is acutely aware of the use of sulfur on the grapes and explained how his spray program was employed to limit sulfites in the finished product. It takes only a few sips to see that this pioneer of Finger Lakes winemaking will be at the front of the pack for years to come.
Wiemer 2007 Field Cuvee $13.99
An earthy blend of Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the Field Cuvee is a medium-bodied red with exceptional balance that will appeal to many different tastes.
Wiemer 2009 Frost Cuvee $11.99
The Frost Cuvee is a special blend, designed each year to reflect the qualities and outcomes of the particular growing season. Primarily Riesling and Gewurztraminer with a little Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir blended in, the wine is refreshing yet complex; there are bright fruit and floral notes up front while light pear and a touch of spice grace the palate.
Wiemer 2010 Dry Riesling $16.99
Wiemer's signature wine, the Dry Riesling is a blend of fruit from all three vineyard sites. It offers hints of lime and orange blossom on the nose, a succulent palate of apricot and grapefruit, and trademark minerality that persists into a smooth finish.
Wiemer 2010 Chardonnay $16.99
This is a new-world white with old-world sensibilities. Aromatic notes of orange and peach are complemented by just a touch of oak on the nose. The fruit is medium-bodied but invigorating on the palate, balanced by fresh acidity that leads to a crisp, pleasing finish.
Ravines Wine Cellars
Spending time in the Finger Lakes, we started recognizing some common themes among the wineries we visited, most noticeably their independent spirit, their congenial demeanor and their understated, but unmistakable, ambition for excellence. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the tasting room at Ravines Wine Cellars. Founded in 2000 by Morton and Lisa Hallgren, the winery sits on the eastern shore of Keuka Lake. This location, while appearing somewhat isolated from other wineries on a map, is actually ideally suited for growing high-quality grapes. The vineyard, situated on a steep slope at the widest section of the lake, benefits from generous exposure, excellent drainage and moderate temperatures. Guided by Lisa's vision and Morton's traditional winemaking techniques, the winery has been a success since its first vintage.
After a leisurely drive through beautiful farmland dotted with produce stands and the odd horse-and-buggy, we arrived at Ravines late in the afternoon to find a bright and airy tasting room, decorated to evoke Morton's native Provence. In the cellar below sits the "Ravinous Kitchen," a humble but comfortable space dedicated to local artisanal food. We were happy to learn that Lisa was doing extra duty behind the tasting table, and while she must have been exhausted after a long, busy day of dealing with throngs of tourists, she generously made the time to take us through her wines, expertly pairing them with local cheeses and chocolates. The experience revealed the Finger Lakes at its best and suggested that with this level of quality and consistency, the region won't be a local secret for much longer.
Ravines 2010 Keuka Village White $11.99
This is a French-American hybrid blend (Cayuga White and Vignoles) that breaks down the boundary between traditional hybrid wines and vinifera wines. The nose shows great fruity intensity with aromas of melon, peach and mango. This is a very lively, fresh, fruity off-dry wine with just enough sweetness to balance the acidity.
Ravines 2010 Keuka Village Red $11.99
A blend of Cabernet Franc and Noiret, this red is bright and fruit-forward with peppery hints and soft tannins. Its bright acidity and earthy finish make it a fine pair with hearty soups, meats and cheeses.
Ravines 2010 Dry Riesling $14.99
Soft apple and mineral aromas are joined by a hint of petrol on the nose. Medium-bodied, it has crisp flavors of stone fruit and mineral that are supported by a potent streak of acidity. Its smooth, clean finish invites another sip.
Ravines 2008 Cabernet Franc $17.99
This Cabernet Franc is made in a classic fruit-forward style with ripe red currant and blackberry aromas. Pretty fruit flavors are complemented by notes of earth and spice in the midpalate, balanced by soft tannins and zippy acidity into a dry finish that ends with a touch of oak.