The Spanish (White Wine) Revolution

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Map Courtesy of Cellar Tours

The last quarter of the twentieth century saw many revolutions, large and small, in the wine world. One of the more interesting, to our way of thinking, has been the amazing transition, from absolute mediocrity to stunning brilliance, in the quality level of white wines from Spain. A mere twenty-five or thirty years ago you would have seen few if any Spanish whites on our shelves, while today the wines in that section equal or surpass in number those we carry from many other regions of the world . . . and they are very, very good!


+/- The Spanish (White Wine) Revolution

Let’s make it thirty years, for discussion’s sake; that puts us back in 1983, only eight years after the death of Generalissimo Franco, who had ruled Spain with the proverbial iron hand since 1936. His dictatorship kept the country largely isolated from the rest of the world, and his death, and the subsequent transition to a democratic form of government, brought winds of change in winemaking as in many other areas. It quickly became apparent that what had been thought adequate for the domestic market would not be competitive in the international market. Younger winemakers saw what needed to be done . . . and eventually funds from the EU gave them the wherewithal to invest in the necessary modern technology to make it all happen.
Count among the pleasures of Spanish whites their diversity. Unlike New Zealand, say, with its “Johnny one-note” dependence on Sauvignon Blanc, Spain offers great variety in white wine, largely because young winemakers have enthusiastically embraced their unique native varietals. And so, when Alex opted to put together his “Spanish whites” this month, he was able to highlight not only six different regions of the country but six (or more) different grape varieties as well. Brief tasting notes are available on the sampler; for background, here’s a brief tour of the regions being featured, from west to east.
1. Rias Baixas: This is home territory for the Albarino grape, and the words translate as “low estuaries” or fjords; this is the stretch of the Atlantic coast just north of the border with Portugal. The grape itself was rescued from near-extinction back in the 80s by a few far-seeing winemakers; today it represents 90% of what is planted in the region, there are more than 200 different producers, and Albarino is widely regarded not just as Spain’s best white but as a wine that has achieved world-class status.
2. Valdeorras: Head east from Rias Baixas and you will shortly find yourself in the region called Valdeorras, or “Golden Valley,” possibly so named because it was the site of Roman gold mines a couple of thousand years ago. The viticultural star here is the Godello grape, another varietal the enjoyed a last-minute rescue from extinction. Most critics rank it (with Albarino and Verdejo) in the top three of indigenous white varieties and point to it as an example of how the new technology has shown winemakers the unexpected treasure in their midst.
3. Rueda: We have moved further inland and dropped down south a bit, and it is here in Rueda, a white-producing island in the middle of a sea of red, that we encounter the third grape in that trinity of native varietals, Verdejo. As British wine writer John Radford famously said, this is a grape that was waiting for technology to catch up with it. Yes, Verdejo is a class-act grape, but it has one problem: its juice has a tendency to oxidize rather quickly. Fifty years ago, the wines coming from here were unappealing to say the least; transformation came at the hands of the head of Marques de Riscal, who was searching for someplace besides Rioja to make white wine; his erstwhile instructor, Professor Emile Peynaud, counseled cold fermentation in stainless steel and covering the juice and the wine with a layer of inert gas, and thus modern-day unoxidized Rueda was born.
4. The Basque Country: We are back in what is called “Green Spain” but have moved halfway across the country and are now on the northern coast, in the home of Spain’s fractious Basque population. Everything here is virtually unpronounceable, starting with the wine, Txakolina (Chacoli to us). The grape is reasonably pronounceable, Hondarrabi Zuri, and the grapes are grown along the coast between Bilbao and San Sebastian. During the phyloxxera plague of the late 19th century the wine almost completely died out, but the Basques, zealous of their culture, did everything they could to keep production going.
5. Costers del Segre: We have now completely crossed the country and reached the foothills of the Pyrenees. The region is known as the Costers del Segre, after the Segre canal that crosses the province, and it owes its existence as a winegrowing region to one company, Codorniu, and the estate that was originally founded here by the Raventos family in 1900. Over the last century many other classy wineries sprang up, producing wines that more than matched those coming from the founding company. And here, at long last, it’s time to admit the presence of international (read “French”) grape varieties, for our wine of choice is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo, and Gewurztraminer.
Are these six regions of Spain the only ones to look to for good white wines? No, but they are among the best. And if you have not yet discovered the pleasures of Spanish whites, perhaps it’s time you did!

The United States of Gin

With all the recent buzz about Gin, another blog post might appear to be a bit of overkill. But we can’t help it. At Heights Chateau, we’re proud Gin lovers, and were enthusiastic supporters well before it became the darling of mixologists and the craft spirits scene.

And what’s not to love? Gin may be one of the most polarizing of spirits, demonized for its centuries-old reputation as a cheap, potentially toxic tipple. Yet, its popularity endures, perhaps because of its paradoxical nature: It possesses as challenging a flavor profile as you’ll find in any major spirit, yet it is also incredibly simple to use in such cocktail classics as the Martini, the Gimlet or most obviously, the Gin and Tonic.

+/- The United States of Gin!

While most people are familiar with Beefeater, Bombay and Tanqueray, there are now vastly more choices on the shelf, most of which have debuted over the past five years. We understand how daunting it is to stare at that wall of Gin and try to figure out what the differences are . . . and believe us, there are differences. Unlike, say, Vodka which has countless brands delivering fairly similar finished products, Gin relies on several base spirits and countless botanical ingredients used in varying combinations to produce a wide array of flavor profiles.

We’re not going to go into an exhaustive list of different types of Gin. For that you can look here, here or here. Instead, we’re going to take a closer look at the fastest growing category of Gins, and ironically, the most foreign to the average consumer: American Gins. What follows are some our favorite new and not-so-new American Gins broadly grouped into three general categories. We hope that these suggestions give the novice a leg up, and the Gin pro some new toys to play with.

Classic Dry

Great Lakes Distilling Rehorst Gin $36.99

Great Lakes Distillery was founded by Guy Rehorst, who had the desire to produce small batch artisanal spirits in an era when all things are mass produced and franchised. Located in the heart of Milwaukee,the distillery uses ingredients that are sourced locally whenever possible. The Rehorst Premium Milwaukee Gin is made from nine botanicals, including two that have never been used in any Gin before. One is Sweet Basil, for a fresh, floral character, and the other unique botanical is Wisconsin Ginseng, regarded as some of the finest Ginseng in the world. This Gin is dry, spicy and slightly sweet, with flavors that build on the palate over time.

Tuthilltown Half Moon Orchard Gin $36.99

Tuthilltown was New York state's first distillery after the repeal of Prohibition, and it has been highly influential in the national craft-distilling boom. Their Gin is named after the vessel in which Henry Hudson first explored his namesake river. Produced using New York Hudson Valley apples and Finger Lakes wheat, this is a unique Gin with a distinctive profile. With its dry, floral notes, this round and smooth Gin can easily be enjoyed on its own or on the rocks.

Taste the Place

St George Terroir Gin $31.99

St George is a legend in the craft distilling community. Founded in 1982, it has grown from a small eau-de-vie producer into multi-faceted operation that takes up an entire hangar at the now-defunct Alameda Airfield. Their calling card has always been interesting and engaging spirits made with the best ingredients available. The Terroir Gin is inspired by the scrubby hillsides that surround the Bay Area, based on Douglas fir, California bay laurel and coastal sage. It may be one of the most aromatic Gins we’ve ever tasted, and one whiff is truly transportive in a way that few spirits are.

Caledonia Spirits Barr Hill Gin $39.99

Caledonia Spirits was founded by Tom Hardie who, after farming bees for 40 years, is now producing a Gin that showcases his excellent honey. Located in Vermont, just south of the Quebec border, this distillery produces Barr Hill Gin, a Gin that is unique in that it uses only two botanicals: juniper berries during distillation and honey at the time of bottling. It has a soft and elegant texture, and its sweet floral notes lend themselves to both cocktails and sipping.

Specialty

New York Distilling Perry’s Tot $31.99

After founding and then running Brooklyn Brewery for 20 years, Tom Potter might have been expected to rest on his laurels. Instead he took a few years off and then opened New York Distilling Company, an impressive distillery/ bar complex in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Perry’s Tot is one of his first releases, and it’s a doozy. Weighing in at 114 proof, this naval-strength Gin is certainly bold, but its expertly blended botanicals, including honey from New York, highlight its dry side and round out any hard edges. Built for tonic, gimlets and fizzes.

Ransom Old Tom Gin $35.99

Tad Seesedt started out as a roving distiller and winemaker until 2008 when he purchased a 40-acre farm in the Willamette Valley that brought his two passions into one place. His Old Tom Gin revives a century-old style of spirit which has more body and sweetness than a traditional dry Gin. Ransom Old Tom starts off with two separate spirits, one distilled from barley, the other with botanicals, which are then blended and barrel aged. The resulting Gin is broad on the palate, with a malty character which gently frames delicate herbal and botanical notes. In all likelihood, it is unlike any Gin you’ve ever tasted.

50 Shades of Pink . . . and Then Some!

Just about a year ago we used this space to tour the Mediterranean world in search of anise-based spirits. Let's start by taking that same trip again, this time seeking and following another thread characteristic of almost all Mediterranean cuisines, the presence on the table in warmer weather of a bottle of Rosé. The idea of Rosé is inextricably linked with any thought of Provence -- with all of the south of France, in fact -- but it is equally appropriately paired with Greece, mainland and islands, and with southern Italy. The wines in question, made with a wide range of grapes, both international and indigenous, are, almost without exception, delicate, elegant, dry, in some cases even austere. And, to repeat, they are an integral part of the fod and wine culture of the places they come from.

+/- 50 Shades of Pink . . . and Then Some!

With that providing our European background, move the story to this country, time around the late 1950s early 1960s. Just as the American consumer was beginning to develop an interest in and taste for good wine, what showed up on these shores but a gift or two from Portugal . . . pink, slightly frothy, just a bit off-dry, and packaged in a sturdy crock that made for a charming candle holder. These were shortly followed in the wine marketplace by . . . . you guessed it, white Zinfandel. And thus it became incontrovertible truth for an entire generation of American wine drinkers that pink = sweet.

At Heights Chateau we've always known otherwise. We're passionate enthusiasts for Rosés and are eager to share that passion. We love their versatility, the range of colors, flavors and styles . . . the light southern French, delicate in color with understated elegant fruit; the darker shades of California, with riper fruit and picnic possibilities; the ruby-hued Spaniards and Italians, richer in fruit than the French yet not as ripe as California and a match for a wide range of foods.

And the category continues to expand, with Rosés coming in from all over the world, from South Africa, South America, and virtually every place in between. Come see our vast selection (last season we topped out at eighty, this year we could easily hit a hundred); we think you'll be impressed by the depth and breadth on our shelves.

Start with three new discoveries of ours:

Dio Fili 2011 Rosé @ $8.99
This young estate is located just to the west of the Greek region of Macedonia; it was founded in 2006 by Yiannis Boutaris and Yiannis and Georgia Goutziamani ("dio fili" in Greek means "two friends"). Yiannis Boutaris was elected mayor of Thessaloniki in the fall of 2010 so Yiannis and Georgia now run the business alone. A blend of Xinomavro and Moschomavro aged in stainless steel, this Rosé is bold in color, smell and palate. The nose explodes with rich ripe red berries, crisp stone fruit and hints of white pepper and minerality. Floral, spicy and exotic, the palate is medium to full bodied, drinking like a clean light red wine.

Alento 2012 Rosé @ $12.99
The Adega do Monte Branco is located in Estremoz, a lovely town in the Alentejo region of Portugal. The winery, which dates only from 2006, is the project of Luis Louro, son of Miguel Louro, the owner and founder of Quinta do Mouro, one of the Alentejo's leading estates. Alento is the winery's first (and better known) brand, designed to showcase the characteristics of the region; they are modern, distinctive wines made predominantly from native grape varietals. This Rosé, for example, is made from Aragones and Touriga Nacional; it is deep, dark, and spicy, with an intense aroma of red berries, well balanced and elegant, with good acidity and a lingering aftertaste.

Essential 2012 Rosé @ $14.99
Richard Betts made his first reputation as one of the top sommeliers in the country, based for several years at the award-winning Little Nell in Aspen Colorado; then came a cult wine line in partnership with Dennis Scholl, another wine company and a tequila brand, and now his own label which he has confidently named My Essential Wine Company. To make his first Rosé, Richard headed (naturally) to France. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, the wine is a real crowd-pleaser, with light pink tones, bright acidity, and lively fruit.

Just in Time for Derby Day

Back before rye whiskey was the darling of fancy cocktail bars, it led a rather solemn existence. Banished to dusty shelves, it was considered an old man’s drink, the purview of drunks and louses who were to too cheap to afford scotch whisky. Few serious whiskey lovers even knew of Rye’s illustrious past, its development as the drink of choice for Irish and Scottish settlers, and its rampant popularity, especially in its spiritual homes of Pennsylvania and Maryland. Prohibition changed all that, and after it ended in 1933, most distillers used their scant resources to make Bourbon, a sweeter whisky that was more appealing, and cheaper to make than Rye.Today, Rye has exploded, with most of the main players and countless microdistillers developing new products fast enough to make your head spin.

+/- Just in Time for Derby Day Dad's Hat Rye 750ml 90%abv $45.99

In 2012 friends Herman Mihalich and John Cooper launched Mountain Laurel Spirits and Dad’s Hat Rye. Dad’s Hat is an homage to the whiskey their fathers drank, what some call a Monongahela-style rye made popular in Western Pennsylvania. In keeping with tradition, this whisky is made with locally-sourced grains from a mash bill that mostly rye, with some malted barley and malted rye. Their fermentation through a new CARL still is low and slow in order to bring out as much nuance and personality as possible. It is then aged about nine months in heavily charred quarter cask barrels before bottling. The resulting Rye is dry and complex, much spicier than many corn-heavy versions made in Indiana, with a pleasingly smooth mouthfeel. Flavors of pickling spice, cinnamon and cloves last into a really long, smooth finish that is impressive for such a young whiskey.

Recipe: Remember the Maine

While this recipe has a few moving parts, it is an absolute classic, and should be a staple of any cocktail repertoire.

• 2 ounces rye
• ¾ ounces sweet vermouth
• 2 bar spoons Cherry Heering (can substitute any cherry liqueur)
• ½ bar spoon absinthe ( can substitute pastis or other similar anisette)

Build into an ice-filled shaker. Add all the ingredients and then stir briskly with a bar spoon. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Can garnish with a brandy cherry.