The Lighter Side of Red

With the worst of the cold weather behind us, it's time to talk about brighter times and the lighter wines ahead. Even though it was one of the warmest winters on record here in Brooklyn, we're still excited to lighten up everything for Spring, from the clothes we wear to the foods we eat. For many wine drinkers, this means ditching their comforting full-bodied reds for refreshing whites and fruity pinks, but it doesn't have to be this way. There is a world of light-bodied red wines out there,  all perfectly suited for the food and activities we enjoy this time of year and in the warmer months that follow.

+/- The Lighter Side of Red

If you ask around for lighter reds, you're liable to get a variety of answers. This is because the notion of a wine's body is a vague and somewhat subjective concept. So before we get into some specifics, let's take a moment to think about what "light-bodied" means. For many of us, when we talk about the body of a wine, we're referring to its weight in the mouth. Among the many factors that come into play, three in particular offer some help at understanding what body means:

• Extraction is a term that refers to the intensity of the fruit in the wine. A wine can feel heavier or lighter based on how much fruit has been extracted out of the grape. With certain wines, one expects to find fuller, more concentrated fruit. However, if a wine is over-extracted, then it may showcase its fruit at the expense of delicacy, finesse and balance.


• Alcohol is another factor that can influence how we perceive body. Wines with high-alcohol content will generally feel bigger on the palate.


• Tannins, found in the skins, pips and stems of grapes, are responsible for the astringency and some of the mouth feel of red wine. Tannins are also found in the oak barrels in which many wines age.

Putting these three ideas together, we can define a wine's body as the combined influence of fruit extraction, alcohol and tannins. This gives us a starting point for the kind of wines we're looking for: A light-bodied red is a wine that will generally have less-extracted fruit, lower alcohol and lighter tannins.

For many people, there is already an easy option: Pinot Noir, the classic red wine that is supposed to pair with anything lighter than steak but heavier than a lettuce leaf. While this conventional wisdom isn't necessarily wrong, the fact is that many, if not the majority of Pinots these days are made in a much fuller style, exhibiting highly extracted fruit, elevated alcohol and big tannins resulting from aging in new oak barrels. Hence, without eliminating Pinot Noir completely from the equation, here are some light-bodied reds that you should have in your repertoire.

Gamay:
The classic grape of the Beaujolais is also grown to much acclaim in the Loire Valley. Generally, it has bright, fruity notes of red berries, zesty acidity and low tannins. The Cru Bourgeois, named after the villages where they grow are generally fuller bodied with more substantial tannins.

Cambon 10 Beaujolais $15.99 (12.5% ABV) From vineyards located between Morgon and Fleurie, this is a pure expression of Gamay fruit. Behind its deep red-purple color, this wine presents inviting and complex aromas of cherry-like fruit with earthy notes. It should be a perfect match for coq au vin.

Grolleau:
A thin-skinned grape, mostly grown in the Loire, Grolleau is best known for its use in rose in the Anjou region. However, winemakers are reviving this indigenous grape in red wines that feature rich, red berry aromas and low alcohol.

Cousin-Leduc 10 "Le Cousin" Rouge Grolleau $20.99 (13% ABV) "Le Cousin" is crafted with 100% Grolleau, and offers very expressive, inviting aromas of freshly crushed wild berries and grapes that mingle with earthy and mineral notes. Try pairing with fruity and spicy Moroccan chicken.

Mondeuse:
Grown mostly in the Savoy and Bugey regions of France, Mondeuse is a fascinating grape that is beginning to make a comeback. The wine, which characteristically exhibits soft, fruity aromas and light spice, was on the verge of extinction with less than 500 acres planted throughout France in the year 2000. Today the grape is being revived and has appeared in the United States and Italy, where it produces still soft but somewhat more extracted wines.

Cellier Palais 07 Mondeuse Vin de Pays $19.99 (12% ABV) This red from the Savoie has an earthy nose with floral notes of violet, roses and cloves. The palate is bright and juicy with great acidity, making it an excellent pair for charcuterie, mushrooms or roast poultry.

Grignolino:
Grown mostly in the Piedmonte region of Italy, Grignolino produced extremely light and fruity reds with bright acidity and low alcohol. Its name derives from the word "Grignole" which means "many pips." Sufficient care from the winemaker will ensure that the abundant pips do not translate into heavy, bitter tannins.

Heitz 08 Grignolino Napa Valley $17.99 (13.8% ABV) From vines lovingly planted in 1949, this is an anomaly of a wine, a light, fresh red produced in the heart of Cabernet country. Heitz's Grignolino comes in a bit high on the alcohol at 13.8%, but it is perfectly in balance, with a fresh floral bouquet complemented by the flavors of bright berry with a hint of orange peel.Try pairing with poached salmon, chicken or crostini.

Schiava:
Schiava is native to the Alto-Adige region of Italy, where it is grown mostly on high-altitude steep-sloped vineyards. It makes a light, easy-drinking wine that is perfect for drinking before or during dinner.

Castel Sallegg 08 Bischofsleiten $17.99 (13% ABV) The unpronounceable "Bischofsleiten" is made 100% from the Schiava grape; the wine has a vibrant ruby hue with a hint of nectarine and plum, good acidity and a clean finish. Its round, soft flavors should pair well with hearty scrambles, cured meats, poultry and pork.

Zweigelt:
This is the most popular grape in Austria, and relatively new on the scene, considering it was only invented in 1922 by crossing Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent (2 other reds that could be included on this list). At its best, Zweigelt offers bright floral aromas and exotic spices that are carried across its light-to-medium frame by racy acidity.

ZVY-GELT 09 Zweigelt $10.99 (13% ABV) Made from 10-40 year-old vines, this is a fun, unpretentious wine, featuring strawberry and red cherry flavors. After pressing, the wine is aged in stainless steel and used oak, imparting a wonderful balance between freshness and structure. This is a great choice for pairing with casual weeknight meals like pizza or pasta.

Blends:
Light red blends might be a bit more difficult to identify than single-varietal wines, but they are often worth the extra effort. Especially in Europe, one will find field blends made with light reds that are designed to be enjoyed young. Passetoutgrain is a perfect example. Made from at least ⅓ Pinot Noir and up to ⅔ Gamay, the wine can come from anywhere in Burgundy, but generally hails from the Cote Chalonnaise. Though its quality can vary wildly, a good bottle will offer soft, drinkable fruit and elegant structure, usually at a reasonable price point. Following are a few of our favorite lighter blends for you to enjoy.

Taupenot-Merme 2008 Passetoutgrain $16.99 (12.5% ABV) This is a fresh and fruity blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay from organically-farmed parcels just below Morey-St. Denis. Rich, aromatic and full of fruit, this budget Burgundy will pair with a variety of game and poultry.
Montjovet 10 La Kiuva $17.99 (12.5% ABV) From a tiny co-op in the Valle d'Aoste, this is a light, bright and zippy blend of mostly Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir. Characteristic black cherry and leather flavors meld with an alluring spiciness and refreshing acidity.
Laurent 09 Saint Pourcain Rouge $12.99 (13.5% ABV) From the Allier region in Auvergne, central France, Laurent Saint-Pourcain is an easy-drinking, juicy, earthy wine made of Gamay and Pinot Noir. It is a perfect spring and summer wine, to drink slightly chilled like a Beaujolais with simple dishes like cold cuts and charcuterie.